"Clown Bar—its name inspired by the neighboring Cirque d’Hiver (winter circus)—has a decorative borderfrom the 1920s depicting clowns at playalong withgreen, yellow, and white tiledwalls and acurving zinc bar. If the decor makes you smile, the friendlyand professional service will too: You'll get expert advice on the natural wines on offer and how best to pair them withthe food. Thewaitstaff isalso helpful withexplaining the menu, which lists only threeingredients for each dish. Withthe historical surroundings as backdrop, diners savor modern cuisine that blendsFrench classics with influences brought by the chef from his native Japan , like a foie gras en croûte enlivened with bright tones of yuzu. In temperate weather, opt for a table under the red awning."