"When it opened in Toronto early in the summer of 2019, Sushi Masaki Saito’s 14 bar stools immediately became the most-sought-after seats in town. Many were mesmerized by the pair of Michelin stars chef Saito had left behind at Sushi Ginza Onodera in NYC. A more fortunate few who ate there were entranced by the sushi, each piece of fish coaxed into yielding maximum umami through the chef’s bespoke formulas of salt, kelp, shoyu — and time."