"Set the scene Two lines of concrete bunkers might seem like an unlikely beach retreat, but for this reason alone, Dexamenes has a one-off architectural appeal worth traveling for. This offbeat idyll lies in a sandy-toed setting right on the golden grains of Kourouta Beach, gazing out over the silvery blue Ionian Sea towards the island of Zakynthos. What’s heart-soaringly lovely about its location though, is that it’s on the northwestern tip of the Peloponnese, which is the preserve of locals rather than tourists. The tranquil landscape is mainly given over to agriculture with watermelons, sunflowers, olive groves, vineyards, and citrus trees carpeting the countryside. What's the backstory? From a young age, local boy Nikos Karaflos had always dreamt of converting this cluster of industrial wine storage tanks built in the 1920s into a place to stay. The wine was pumped directly from the beach onto the waiting ships, so the tanks are tantalizingly close to the water. Athenian architectural practice, K Studio, were responsible for the sensitive transformation and while the result is uncompromisingly modern, it somehow feels welcoming and warm too. What can we expect in our room? The bedrooms housed in the individual tanks are silent, shady spaces offering respite from the glare of the Greek sunshine. The nine sea view rooms are the most desirable, but there is also a thrill, if not a slightly intimidating one, in sleeping in one of the rooms facing the two mammoth, steel silos. The look is functional modernism with an eye on the building’s industrial heritage. Walls are totally unadorned, fittings have been custom-made using materials like poured concrete, powder-coated steel, glass, and terrazzo, while marine ply and canvas pull it all together to create a very subtle nautical vibe. The lack of color, can, at times, feel a little cheerless, but it’s clearly purposeful; it lets the tanks do the talking. How about the food and drink? The sea-facing terrace serves an all-day menu starting with simple breakfasts of local watermelon and cooked to order egg dishes, lunches of deep-fried calamari and grilled cheese sandwiches, and there’s also an ice cream stand and beach service. The lantern-strewn restaurant is housed in the old engine room, or a table can be set up in one of the steel silos, just for fun. This is one of the largest wine producing regions (surprise, surprise) in Greece so there is a mind-boggling list of wines rarely tasted beyond Greek shores. What’s the crowd like? Curious. It’s obvious that a lot of people are here to stare at, and study, the striking framework that makes this hotel unique. People who adore architecture and interior design, but also in-the-know couples, perhaps Athenians on a weekend away. The hotel also has a three-bedroom, 19th century villa which is ideal for the sort of families who can’t stand the primary-colored, packed-with-Brits resorts in other areas of Greece. Karaflos sees the project as more than just a place to stay but also a hub reflecting youthful Greek culture, so there are regular events with wine tastings from local vineyards, poetry readings, yoga, meditation, and holistic retreats. Anything to say about the service? It genuinely feels like the staff here enjoy their work, which is uplifting to witness. Karaflos and his team take pride in their local area and have reams of recommendations, from visits to vineyards to teeny taverna lunch spots. What's the neighborhood scene like? The residents of this rare, quiet corner are experts in slow living. The type of town where the bus timetable probably hasn’t been updated since the '80s. Think of this trip as a chance to reset to a soporific, unhurried pace of life. Location-wise: Kourouta is a small seaside colony with a few houses and restaurants near Amaliada about an hour south of the port city of Patras. A must-do is a visit to the Unesco World Heritage-listed site of Ancient Olympia, 40 minutes’ drive away, just take it slow (and don’t attempt the bus)… Anything else to add? There’s no pool, but being able to swing your feet straight from a terrace hammock to the sea more than makes up for it. Anything you'd change? Sometimes dishes at supper seem a little over ambitious and less in keeping with the laid-back, beachy feel. Is it worth it? Considering the price it absolutely is, it might not be somewhere to return to again and again, but it’s an extraordinary place that will leave its mark far longer than any other traditional Aegean hotel ever will." - Aoife O'Riordain
