"What were your first impressions when you arrived? Set in a converted school on historic circular street Arnold Circus, savvy diners need to find the unmarked door and the discreet buzzer to be let into this cult classic. Once inside, walk through the garden and look out for jars of local honey on a shelf by the wall. The restaurant itself, in the school’s former bike shed, is quite compact with a minimal white interior—just some straw hats perch on the wall—but they’ve expanded the seating into the garden outside with summery-feeling covered tables that are perfect for every weather eventuality.What’s the crowd like? What’s the crowd like? Arty types in monochrome, fashion-conscious friendship groups and London’s food critics take up most of the tables chattering away quietly. What should we be drinking? For lunch, start with something light and fragrant like a Lillet Blanc vermouth and tonic or pre-dinner, their perfectly-poured negroni hits the spot. The wine list is short but has plenty of corkers, including the Bag in the Box St John house wine which comes in a nice carafe for a pretty reasonable £30. Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss. Since opening in 2004, Melanie Arnold and Margot Henderson’s daily-changing menu has been a celebration of seasonal ingredients. Dishes are classic British and modern European in a mix of sizes meaning you can share a selection of the smaller light plates such as watermelon, feta and mint salad, langoustines and mayonnaise and crunchy radishes with whipped cod roe or go for a more classic main and vegetable sides combo. Fish and meat here are treated with the utmost respect and served with pleasing accompaniments such as grilled mackerel, peas and horseradish and onglet, beetroot and anchovy. Don’t skip over the sides: glorious new potatoes arrive swimming in melted butter. There are daily specials scrawled onto the blackboard outside and if the tarte tatin is on the menu, it is a must. And how did the front-of-house folks treat you? Tables are highly coveted and turnarounds are quick, with everyone having to be out the school gates by 10pm so staff can seem a little abrupt at times, but they know their stuff and are always on hand to help make sure you don’t over order. What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here? Even though it’s a firm foodie favorite, the setting still makes it feel like a well-kept secret. It’s a great choice for celebratory occasions, although every meal here feels quietly special." - Sonya Barber
