"Hakkoku is as nondescript as it gets; after all, with six seats at the counter in the main dining room, plus two more rooms with counters manned by the chef's apprentices, the main feature is the wooden sushi bar itself. Chef Hiroyuki Sato stands on the opposing side, slicing away raw fish with fastidious care. The omakase consists of 30 individual pieces of sushi—nigiri and maki only—and each is a self-contained masterpiece. The opening salvo, a nori roll filled with finely chopped tuna, is the solitary string note that launches a grand concierto ." - Melinda Joe
Mark Parren Taylor