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"Dinner here feels like an event worth lingering for: since opening in 2022 the restaurant has aimed to evolve local customs (I noticed reclaimed wooden beams transformed into the chef’s sleek counter), and Ryder’s leadership shows in dishes that are refined yet lusty—the New York strip from nearby Pineland Farms is extraordinary with a perfectly executed charon sauce—while even small bites like the cheeky “chips & dip” (a dill-festooned sour cream cylinder encasing caramelized onion jam, served with homemade potato chips and crowned with a cannelé of Siberian caviar) are revelations." - Alexandra Hall