"A legacy, service-forward restaurant where the spectacle and well-oiled brigade matter as much as the food; mid-’80s, comforting-but-bland Chinese-American dishes define the menu, and the dining room attracts a fashionable, celebrity-adjacent crowd. The reviewer values the precision and scene more than the cuisine itself, and singles out the martini (requested ‘‘dirty’’ with bleu-cheese olives) as the only thing he truly enjoys ordering there." - Chris Crowley