Bar 1010 - Review - Northern Liberties - Philadelphia - The Infatuation
"Editor's Note: Co-owner and pizzaiola Mike Fitzick left Bar 1010 after this review was written. We will be checking back in for an update. We like to think of Bar 1010 in Northern Liberties as an adult pizza party. Loud hip hop is playing, boozy drinks are flowing, and the pizza—which is fantastic—is being eaten by all. Like all good pizza parties, other assorted snacks and shareables are available. But at this one, the wood-fired pies are really the only thing you need to have on your table. photo credit: Gab Bonghi The corner spot, formerly home to Spuntino, is still anchored by the tiled pizza oven, but has an upgraded interior. Families and groups of friends pile into the brown leather banquettes, and neighborhood couples share pizzas at the few marble two-tops. It’s all open to the connecting bar and pizza station, so aside from admiring the plants and the Drake soundtrack, you can see the masters at work. The pizza is a thin, yet bubbly-crusted, Neapolitan-by-way-of-New-York hybrid. We prefer anything with a red sauce—the margherita and spicy ‘roni are addictive—but there are also more fun, creative pies than you’ll find at most pizza shops. The jalapeño pesto beautifully combines the minced spicy pepper with a dollop of pecorino sour cream, while the buffalo chicken (which usually makes for a sloppy slice) is crisp, spicy deliciousness. photo credit: Gab Bonghi That said, if Bar1010’s pizza is Meryl Streep, the rest of the menu is still at theater camp. The fresh, garlicky bruschetta is served on sad grocery store bread, and the salads are overdressed and underwhelming. The cocktails are solid and you definitely get your money’s worth, but nuanced libations they are not. photo credit: Gab Bonghi Like most parties, the one at Bar 1010 can get messy, and you may have your first few bites without plates or silverware. But when the pizza is this good, it's (usually) a bash to remember. Food Rundown photo credit: Gab Bonghi Bacon Salad If you need a salad before your pizza, this is the one to get. The combination of thick-cut bacon, pears, and creamy goat cheese is fantastic, and the dressing is tangy and refreshing. photo credit: Gab Bonghi Margherita The pies here have a thin, crispy crust, but not so thin that you can’t fold it (and they still have those puffy charred bubbles). This one is simple and perfect: sweet, bright red sauce, gooey mozzarella and parm, and peppery bites of basil. There are a lot more interesting varieties to choose from here, but overlooking this would be a mistake. photo credit: Gab Bonghi Spicy Roni This pizza combines shaved jalapeño, crisp-chewy pepperoni cups, and hot honey, all with the signature tangy tomato sauce and lots of creamy mozz. It’s spicy, but not necessarily going to give you the meat sweats. photo credit: Gab Bonghi Jalapeño Pesto Not our favorite pizza here, but definitely the most interesting. It combines fresh shaved jalapeño and a glob of pecorino cream added post-oven. The crust holds everything together perfectly—no sog in sight. photo credit: Gab Bonghi Buffalo Chicken We used to be buffalo-chicken pizza skeptics. It’s usually an overloaded, oversauced mess. But Bar1010 has made us believers. This combines housemade buffalo sauce, pungent blue cheese, tender pieces of chicken, scallions, and it keeps its structure through the life of the pie (which, yeah, you’re going to finish). photo credit: Gab Bonghi Salted Caramel Espresso Gelato All of their ice creams and gelatos are housemade, and they're all creamy and flavorful. Our favorite is the cookies and cream, but this is a close second. It could give some of our best scoop shops a run for their money." - Alison B. Kessler
