Café Chelsea - Review - Chelsea - New York - The Infatuation
"Café Chelsea is one celebrity sighting short of a certified scene. Each time a host ushers someone through the booth-filled bar area into one of the dining rooms, people look up from their shrimp cocktails, as if they expect to see Bob Dylan, or Patti Smith—or any of the other poets and musicians who once frequented the Hotel Chelsea—walk in and take a seat under an abstract canvas from the hotel's collection of art, mostly by former artists in residence. The hotel has famously drawn New York’s hardest-living bohemians since it opened in the late 19th century, from the poet Dylan Thomas who died of alcohol poisoning while living here, to punk Nancy Spungen (from Sid and Nancy), who bled out in a bathroom. Leonard Cohen hooked up with Janis Joplin in the elevator, and Andy Warhol shot a film called Chelsea Girls. This anchor of 23rd Street was possibly the most written-about—and definitely the most sung-about—hotel in the world before it switched off its neon sign around 2011. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Sidewalk seating on 23rd Street.photo credit: Alex Staniloff The bar room at Café Chelsea.photo credit: Alex Staniloff The hotel opened under new ownership in 2022, setting the scene with Lobby Bar, followed by Café Chelsea. This is no holding area for a continental breakfast buffet. The Art Deco restaurant is a revived cornerstone for the neighborhood, and a destination for a new generation of gossip. We’ve heard it called the “new Balthazar” which isn’t quite accurate—it feels a little more approachable—but Café Chelsea does follow the NYC brasserie template of French food in a restaurant that feels old but isn’t (it formerly housed a bait-and-tackle shop). With mirrors on every wall, it's built for people-watching. photo credit: Alex Staniloff photo credit: Alex Staniloff photo credit: Alex Staniloff So, who’s actually here? Teens sharing post-swim burgers with their dad, tourists eating oysters and steak frites, and a pair of Gucci-draped ladies who refer to the hotel’s tapas restaurant (El Quijote) as “El Coyote” while working through exactly one Diet Coke, one branzino, and one artichoke each, peeling artichoke leaves with the tips of their manicured nails, and taking very small bites, so as not to mess up their lipstick. Celebs or not, it's a prime “who’s who” of NYC, juicy with the promise of gossip. Come here with that one person who shares your secret language for restaurant commentary—but don’t be surprised if you wind up deep in a relationship discussion with the couple sitting next to you, or even sharing a bite of your neighbor’s maitake au poivre. At Café Chelsea’s close-set tables, you don't just eavesdrop on the conversation around you—you join in. photo credit: Alex Staniloff photo credit: Alex Staniloff Don’t come here for the briefly internet-famous ravioles du dauphiné (just screenshot our photo below)—the food is good, and some things are better than they need to be, but it’s not the main draw. Still, the black coffee at breakfast is bottomless, the omelets are perfectly turned out, and every time we’ve eaten here, we’ve been persuaded to order dessert, just to linger a little longer. Food Rundown photo credit: Alex Staniloff Maitake au Poivre A giant slab of wood-fired mushroom, this entree has a good peppery kick, crisp edges, and a hint of sweetness from the cognac sauce. A great option for both vegetarians and anyone who enjoys the fungi kingdom. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Ravioles Du Dauphiné This strip of pasta with little bubbles of cheese looks great on the plate, and it’s a fine bite—but there are better, more substantial options on the menu. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Omelettes Sometimes you just need a perfect omelet, snuggled onto a fine china plate, and the one at Café Chelsea is available throughout the day. Get it with the salad rather than the frites. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Pain Perdu We love the cafe’s conservatory-like rooms in the mornings, and there’s no better way to breakfast here than sharing this decadent, bruléed french toast with one or two other people. Soaked in cognac maple syrup and rich with mascarpone, it tastes like Christmas day. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Chelsea Burger A perfectly good dry-aged burger (also available with cheese), with a densely seeded sesame bun and raw onions. But unless you’re really in the mood for a burger, we’d recommend the steak frites for a meatier option. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Steak Frites Charred and smoky from a wood-fire grill, this $48 hangar steak is pink and juicy inside, and topped with herby compound butter. The fries are up to the task of sopping up meat juices and ketchup. On a good day, they’re like an upgraded McDonald’s. But we’ve also had them come out at a disappointing room temperature. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Dessert The desserts here are unfussy but elegant—for example a house-made strawberry sorbet, with Champagne poured over it, or a cinnamony pear tart. They like their spiced desserts, and the chocolate mousse is very cardamom-forward, which we appreciate. But for something lighter, the lemon sherbet is zesty and refreshing." - Sonal Shah
