"Why book?
For the coolest digs in the city—the same reason I ran into Keanu Reeves in the onsite café on my last morning here.
Set the scene
Situated in the Downtown West neighborhood on a quiet block of warehouses that wouldn’t feel out of place in Brooklyn’s East Williamsburg, this 21c is at first glance both grand and imminently approachable. That’s because it’s housed in a 95-year-old, 10-story former YMCA building. Whereas sports are often put at odds with the arts, those athletic bones here are actually used to amplify the collections that give the hotel its name. There’s a 14,000-square-foot exhibition space that is in part composed of the YMCA’s original facilities—the most dramatic being the gallery that occupies the double-height space once reserved for a basketball court and the running track above that circles the space like a halo.
The backstory
21c Museum Hotels as a group have earned the title of North America’s largest multi-venue museum dedicated solely to collecting and exhibiting the most contemporary of contemporary art—that is, works hailing from the 21st century onward. With 78,500 square feet of exhibition space open to the public daily, free of charge at locations ranging from this one here in St. Louis to Chicago and Louisville, the project is nothing short of impressive. 21c’s Chief Curator, and Museum Director Alice Stites has overseen the St. Louis location’s inaugural exhibition with thoughtful consideration for the latest city 21c has put down roots in. Revival: Digging Into Yesterday, Planting Tomorrow is a group exhibition featuring paintings, sculpture, and multimedia work from everyone from Kehinde Wiley to Duke Riley, and will run through June 2024.
The rooms
The gallery spaces are certainly the star of the show here, but it’s unsurprising that an elevated sensibility has seeped into each of the property’s 173 guest rooms. My room, a 513-square-foot Luxury King Suite, opens with a spacious sitting room—deep couch, breakfast table, full bar, and so on. A hallway with built-in closet compartments leads to the rest—straight forward is the excellently-apportioned bathroom with a shower and soaking tub that rival each other in their capaciousness. Break left for the bedroom, which in addition to that aforementioned king bed has a reclining chair—in case the sitting room is too far a jaunt.
Food and drink
Like all of the best museums, the café here is key. Good Press (where I saw Keanu) serves up espressos, pastries, and locally-made juices from its cheery orange counter, with heartier menu items available for both breakfast and lunch. Idol Wolf, across the lobby, is the evening option. In this intimately low-lit, low-ceilinged space, executive chef Matthew Daughaday and his immaculate team serve a fabulous menu of Spanish fusion cuisine—tapas made the local way, with local ingredients. I am startled to be recommended, of all things, the chicken—spice-rubbed, blackened, crispy-skinned, it’s the best I’ve had in a restaurant.
The spa
Locust Street Athletic and Swim Club is a recreational heaven—those YMCA bones rear their beautiful head once again. The pool is massive, the equipment bountiful, the spa treatments utilitarian and kindly. A nice touch: the saunas are outfitted with windows which overlook the pool, and some natural light slips in as a result.
The neighborhood/area
It’s a moderate stroll to Downtown proper, with the Arch and all of the bustle that comes with it—attractions such as the city’s many museums (and the Laumeier Sculpture Park) warrant a taxi.
The service
Good, old-fashioned Southern hospitality—smiling, warm, and proper.
Eco effort
Most everything available to consume onsite is sourced locally, from the juice in the café to the pork in the restaurant.
Accessibility
All floors are accessible via elevator." - Charlie Hobbs
