Altai Tavan Bogd National Park

Getting Lost in Mongolia, the World's Last Truly Nomadic Realm

"Mandala Altai, our home for the next four days. It felt splendidly remote, a place removed from the world's complexities and our own petty struggles. On a far hillside I could see the miniature figure of a horseman. Even at this great distance, I could hear the soft murmur of the hooves. With their womblike embrace, gers are the accommodation of choice in Mongolia. While maintaining the atmosphere of the nomads' tents, the visitors' version across the country has reached a level of glamping luxury that is surprising in such remote regions. Furnished with patterned Mongolian chests and tables, Mandala Altai had beds piled with luxury linens. Each ger is centered around a woodburning stove; in the early mornings an attendant would creep in to light it so the tent was cozy when we awoke. An adjoining ger acted as a spacious bathroom with hot water, an elegant open shower, and a compost loo. A central dining ger was the setting for evening aperitifs and lavish meals."