Loo Yeo
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Visited in March 2013 — I stumbled across this spot thanks to a hunch my guidebook was missing something, and sure enough it was almost on my doorstep in Oltrarno. You walk through a deli counter into a plain little dining room, but the setting is all the better for it — the Arno glints through the window and the food does the talking. Crostini caldo with chicken liver was rustic and just right: fresh bread, coarse mash, spot-on seasoning (8.5/10). Then pappardelle with wild boar ragù — rich, gamey, cockle-warming, and just the kind of sauce that makes you slow down and smile (8.5/10). Dessert was an old-school panna cotta, not gleaming white but softly sweet, wobbly in the best way, topped with pine-nuts, raisins and a splash of vinsanto (7.5/10). No frills, no fuss — just the ethics of Tuscan simplicity, and it works.