Omar S.
Yelp
My first order from Antojitos Tenampa was via UberEats. It included:
1 Barbacoa de Borrego Taco
1 Taco Alambre
1 lb. Carnitas w/ Corn Tortillas
1 Home Made Agua Fresca - Jamaica (no ice)
1 Guacamole
I also used the UberEats page to ask for salsa de chile de árbol en aceite, salsa verde and salsa roja, and handmade tortillas.
A bit high-maintenance, maybe, but it was my first time eating Tenampa's food, and like a lot of people, I want what I want, so I ask for it. But UberEats didn't offer me the opportunity to make an even more explicit set of requests, so I had to call the restaurant, anyway.
The phone was answered by the owner's son, Daniel, who works the family business between classes. Daniel sorted out my order: I wanted carnitas tacos, and there was no place to specify that on UberEat's page, so SMART Daniel sold me a POUND of carnitas and a STACK of freshly-made tortillas... but I fooled him, because I'm a leftover guy, so a pound of carnitas suits me, just fine.
My order arrived well-packed, and the restaurant included extra of the extra stuff I'd mentioned.
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"How was the food?"
Tenampa's barbacoa, a moist and tender pile of shredded lamb, was shot full of Maillard-y goodness, a trick, when you're prohibited by County ordinances from cooking the meat in a hole in the ground, as God intends it to be done.
Theirs is a different version of that very favorite dish of mine than the ones I get at El Borrego or La Barbacoa Autentica De Borrego (both in City Heights), but for God's sake, please don't make me choose. All three are excellent examples of what they are, and gun to my head, I'll order the one that I'm closest to when I get hungry.
The carnitas was good, and I've ordered it again since, but with due respect to my buddy Jay K. (The Taco Crusader, whose own Tenampa review appears further down this page), Carnitas Las Michoacanas (the one in Chula, not the one in Rolando) does the best job of deep-frying pork products in the County. Fight me. The worst that can happen is you prove me wrong and I get to eat even better carnitas.
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Barbacoa, check.
Carnitas, check.
Now, let's talk about that "Taco Alambre."
Alambres, which are served throughout Mexico and in parts of the US are, generally speaking, dishes made with grilled meat, peppers and onions, and topped with cheese. This mixed pile of goodness is meant to be scooped up with a fresh-made tortilla - corn or flour, dealer's choice.
Tenampa's "Alambre Especial" is a stunning mass of those things, specifically: pork chops; bacon; ham; bell pepper; onions; chorizo; and a mix of cheeses: panela, soft and creamy and dairy-rich; and mozzarella, with all its stretchy, melty charm. Tortillas come with, but since the kitchen is able to provide hand-made corn tortillas for a small upcharge, then, if I'm sayin', I say, "get 'em."
But back to my order.
I'm a glutton who wants to live to celebrate my gluttony, and because I was ordering other menu items too, I limited myself to the scaled-down Taco Alambre, a combination of beef, peppers and onions and cheese that's simpler than the Especial.
"But how was it?"
Alambres, in whatever form they're offered, are among those things that a diner such as myself, one with worldly experience and a refined and educated palate, shouldn't order, or, if he does, shouldn't care for...
"Oh, c'mon, man..."
Fine.
The beef was firm but tender, like really good carne asada, and the peppers were smoky, the way I like them prepared in Rajas con Crema and Salsa Molcajeteada...
"Really, dude?"
Sorry... words fail me.
Wait... no they don't...
The Tacos Alambres at Tenampa are goddamned goooood, my friends! They are... they're... a Mexican cheesesteak! and if you know anything about me, you know that I've literally been eating cheesesteaks since before I was two years old, from my father's sub shop, so, really, cheesesteaks are a part of my patrimony.
Is it weird that the item that most impressed me is the one that might have been designed by a team of hungry 15 year-old boys? Maybe, but I don't care. When I need to eat my feelings, I'm going to do so with a Taco Alambre in each hand.
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Anyway, if you haven't tried Antojitos Tenampa in Lemon Grove, please do.
Owner Israel Hernandez will make you feel like you're at your uncle's place, eating a range of DF-style antojitos and other items from a taco-shop-on-steroids, whose menu shames every 'berto's in the County.
And finally, here are Israel's words, which say what I've been trying to tell you, better than I ever could:
"At Antojitos Tenampa we strive to offer top quality food, provide excellent service and offer a pleasant place to eat, but we also care about feeding the soul of our customers. How? serving those homemade flavors that when tasting them bring you a good memory or transport you to a place that you have never been able to forget."