Apo Whang Od (Legendary Filipino mambabatok Tattoo Artist)

Apo Whang Od & Buscalan village are incredible. Unfortunately, "Guide to the Philippines" who I booked through was dishonest. First, although the man operating the tram clearly said it would cost me 200 pesos to ride the tram, Anna Bella said 600 plus an additional fee. I am a generous individual and happy to tip extensively, but lying to get money is an insult to my intelligence. I would have let that go without comment except that they also held me hostage so I could not speak to Grace. I previously booked time with Grace, but these guides lied and said too many tourists would keep her busy. I'm not blind, I could see hardly anyone was there. I still give the experience 5 stars because it was a once in a lifetime inspiring journey and the driver and guide both worked hard to keep me comfortable, including Anna Bella's great cooking that made me feel at home, until I became aware of their deceit. Unfortunate.

About an hour travel from Bontoc via motorcycle. An isolated village in Kalinga, known for the cultural icon Whang-Od, being the oldest and the last mambabatok or tattoo artist in her tribe. It was literally a breathtaking hike from the drop off point going up to the Buscalan Village. The people are very accommodating and warm. We were offered a decent place to stay for about 400 pesos per person which has a quiet scenic spot, you can see the rice terraces and it was a bit cold to take a bath. The place is generally safe and quiet at night time. However, on the tattoo part, you would have to wait in a long queue just to have the signature three dots tattoo by Whang Od for 300 pesos. But for more intricate tattoos done by the other villagers you would have to spend 3000 pesos based on its size which is a bit pricey. But the overall experience is great except for the new bridge to have a problem that day, and we have to use the old bridge is a bit of a hassle adding extra more steps to get to the other side.

My most life changing experience yet. The sites are amazing during the trekking. The place we stayed at had amazing food and accommodations. However looking back I think the locals are in for a little cash grab because I was almost charged 10k for an arm band tattoo. I still got it for 5k but even that was a little pricey. I wouldn’t recommend tagging along your kids because it could be tiring for both you and them. I also wouldn’t recommend going if you’re not planning on getting inked because there’s nothing much to do other than that, unless you are scheduled for visits to 2-3 locations like Sagada and Benguet.

Visiting Buscalan in Kalinga to meet Apo Whang-Od, the last traditional Kalinga tattoo artist, is an extraordinary cultural experience. Nestled in the Cordillera Mountains, the trek to Buscalan is challenging but offers breathtaking views. The village warmly welcomes visitors, providing a glimpse into their rich heritage. Apo Whang-Od’s skill and artistry in traditional hand-tapped tattoos are awe-inspiring, and receiving a tattoo from her is a deeply personal and significant experience. Staying in Buscalan offers immersion into the Kalinga lifestyle, with basic but comfortable accommodations that allow for reflection and connection to nature. The simplicity of the village life, away from modern distractions, enhances the experience. While the trek and facilities can be demanding, the authentic cultural immersion and the honor of meeting a living legend make it a worthwhile journey. Overall, Buscalan and Apo Whang-Od offer a unique and enriching adventure that connects visitors to the enduring spirit of the Kalinga people.

Don't miss your chance to meet Apo the legend herself. Definitely worth it. Check out DIY Buscalan Guide for amazing activities in the village.

I had such an amazing time here. The highlight of the trip was meeting Apo Whang Od. The locals and guides were so nice and everyone here is just so kind and helpful. I will visit again.

Definitely an experience like no other, the people are friendly and welcoming, and App Whang Od is a lovely woman..see you again, Buscalan!!

If you're ever able to make this trek, you absolutely must do it. The entire experience was wildly surreal. Apo Whang-od herself is a wonderful person and the aura surrounding her legend is unmatched.

I've known about Apo Whang Od (aka Maria Oggay) way before she became popular and I have always wanted to make the trek to see her. (In all honesty, I just really wanted to see/meet her. The ink was was nothing more than a secondary bonus.) It shouldn't have taken this long even most especially since home is only 6 hours away (far better than the 13-15 coming from Manila.) But something always got in the way every time I visit the Philippines - more specifically the limits of time! (Ahhh, time can be so very VERY cruel!) So I promised myself that should I be given one more shot at it (more especially now that she's a young 106 years old): I AM THERE! A promise I kept. It really is like a rite of passage. Getting to her village is no joke. The drive alone isn't easy: the long and winding mountainous roads - some one way due to landslides - and then that 20-30 minute treacherous hike down and up mountains and crossing rivers with no safety protocols in place. There's danger lurking everywhere! But once my eyes set on her, none of that mattered. She really is stunning in person. I'm not sure if I was just star struck or honored, or...? Anyway. I was just happy to see her! And for the bargain price of 300PHP (approximately $5.50USD), Apo herself will ink you with her famous three dots of Kalinga. (It's the only one she does now.) One might be wondering what is there to expect and if I have any tips!? Here they are: 1) Go on a weekday. Weekends, I'm told, are incredibly busy and if you don't have a reservation, you most likely won't be seen until the next day (or two!) I went on a Thursday (no reservations.) Left home at 3am, got there at 9am, we were all good and done by noon. 2) Wear comfortable clothing and shoes. They don't need to be hiking shoes, but they need to be extra comfy. That hike is no joke - take as much breaks and time as you need during. 3) Bring bottled water. One should be good, no need to carry extra weight during the hike. You can always buy more when you get to her village. 4) Bring CASH. Cards are very useless here. When I went, it's 1kPHP (about $20USD) for registration and for the guide, another 100PHP (AROUND $2) per person once you get to the village, 300PHP per person for the ink (as mentioned earlier), of course you have to tip her AND your guide, and then moolah for souvenirs. Better to have too much money than never enough. 5) Try not to piss Apo off. She's known to deny inking people for reasons exclusively known only to her. 6) She does not use normal ink. It's a mix of charcoal and water. She does not use needles either: she uses a thorn from a pomelo tree. (This is the way it's been done for hundreds of years.) You get to keep the thorn she uses on you. So yes, an infection is very possible, so take good care of your ink as well as you can. (Let me know if you have any more questions about this and I'll try my best to answer 'em!) FUN FACT: Apo Whang Od/Maria Oggay is the oldest person to grace the cover of ANY Vogue magazine. (The Vogue article is available for your reading pleasure online. Just simply Google it.) She has also been deemed one of Philippines' National Treasures. Our guide, Wan-Nay, was a total BOSS. I think she can hike these mountains blindfolded. She put all of us to shame. One good thing that made me glad I waited is that the hike is much easier now compared to, let's say, a few years ago. The hike used to take 2-3 hours, trying to make climbs using ropes and the like. I was told no part of the route to her is cemented back then: some of it is now. Whew! It truly is an experience and a story to tell. I'm so glad I finally got to go. If you're planning on going, DO IT NOW. She isn't getting any younger. Although she still moves like a spring chicken, at 106, there's never any guarantees. (But like millions of others, I wish her a longer and more prosperous life!) One of my proudest moments... so happy and so honored I got to finally meet her!

very great experience into the wilds of Northern Luzon. Takes planning and possible dangers related to landslides and politics between neighboring tribes.

Tattoos no longer have a taboo status in our country, and almost everyone has one these days. I think it is commendable for our society to have moved on from the medieval thinking that equates tattoos to hooliganism and thuggery, and it has become more socially acceptable for people to have tattoos, even visible ones. While some companies still reserve the right to tell their employees to cover up tattoos while in a professional environment, emerging industries like the IT and creatives industry don't even have "look policies" anymore, so it has become a free-for-all: dress however you want, color your hair a shocking shade of pink, get a sleeve tattoo -- nobody really cares as much anymore. If you are into tattoos, culture and history all at the same time, you will find that Kalinga's last surviving tattoo artist is very interesting and fascinating. There is a whole culture to it, and the tattoo art that has survived in the Butbut Tribe of Buscalan for centuries carries a whole lot of symbolism and significance. I'll leave it to Google to explain the bulk of its history, but you get the gist: Whang-od (now 96 years old.. or 98, nobody can say for sure) was trained by her father in the art of Cordilleran indigenous tattooing, and the tattoos used to be branded on the warriors for their valor and courage, and on the women, as a standard of beauty. The formidable chest tattoos, for instance, were symbols of the soldier's skill in the battlefield, as it is a reward for headhunting - the practice of bringing back an enemy's severed head back to the village after the fight. The tradition has been passed along for years, and it was nearing its extinction when Whang-Od, the last surviving traditional artist, has found a worthy successor in her grand-niece, Grace. The tattoos are done in a traditional hand-tapped method, with a citrus thorn for the stylus and pine tree soot for the ink. There is usually a ceremony, but these days, one can just pay for a "donation" for every tattoo. Thank God you no longer have to kill another person! These tattoos are beautiful and deeply rooted in Cordilleran history. They are symbolic of nature and the environment around the tribe, and it is surely one of the most intriguing forms of tribal art in our country. Whang-od is not getting any younger, so you might want to hurry and get your tattoos as soon as possible. The trip is definitely not easy as it takes about 15 hours to get there, but everything is worth it once you make the climb and settle down with the villagers. It is quite a sight seeing how the tribespeople live.