Jackie McMillan
Google
(3.5 stars)
Having had a memorable meal of interesting Italian eats at the original Baccomatto Osteria in Surry Hills, I came to the relocated Randwick restaurant with high expectations. While atmospherically the new restaurant feels quite similar—it’s also located at the bottom of a medium density tower with the same marble bar and concrete minimalism—it’s a very different dining proposition.
Arriving during aperitif hour (5-6pm) we scored good dirty gin and vodka martinis ($15/each) accompanied by a tray of snacks. The martinis were stirred rather than shaken, with ice first put into the glass to cool it down nicely. They were both well-balanced, enjoyable drinks against crisp focaccia, Italian mortadella and a melange of olives. The burrata con Panzanella ($22) felt pricy for the size and under-seasoned. It’s plucked from a short list of common Italian entrees: arancini, carpaccio, polpette, prosciutto and calamari fritti. While made in house, the pastas also fail to stray far from the expected. Small silky gnocchi were enjoyable (if not earth shattering) against a tomato-based pork and fennel sausage ragu in gnocchi con salsiccia al finocchietto ($30). Spinach and ricotta ravioli were toothsome and sufficiently thin in ravioli con burro al porcini e funghi ($32), a light brown mixed mushroom and porcini butter. Focaccia al rosmarino ($7) delivered four squares of crisp flatbread glistening in oil, not ideal for dipping but the saucing didn’t really inspire a need to scrape it all up anyway. I suspect the proximity to the hospital has morphed Baccomatto into a homely spot that delivers simple Italian food quickly to those on short dinner breaks, and thus it might speak more keenly to those diners.
