Patrick L.
Yelp
I think of myself as a bit of an absintheur, but when it comes to cocktails, it tends to be difficult to truly incorporate absinthe into the mix beyond a mere rinse of the glass, due to its ability to overpower. The overwhelming positive of Bar Trench is the ability of the house bartenders to craft unique, outstanding cocktails using my favorite anise-fennel-wormwood spirit.
This comes with a major negative, though. Let me just say that Trench was the first cocktail bar I visited in Japan. It was here that I came to a sinking realization that I would never truly have a great time drinking in a Japanese cocktail bar. Why is this? Well, it's simple - they ALL. allow. smoking.
Trench, like many Japanese bars, is a fairly small space. When we arrived, it was nearly full, with about 75% of the crowd puffing away on their cigarettes, nonstop. The stench practically knocked me over, and the smoke made my eyes start watering immediately. It reminded me of the bad old days in the United States, before indoor smoking laws were passed and every bar was a nasty, smoke-filled hole. It boggles my mind that in Japan, a place where the best bartenders take such a serious, intricate approach to their craft, all of that is allowed to be shoved to the side, in favor of nasty cigarettes. Why bother crafting these exquisite cocktails with subtle aromatics, if they can't truly be enjoyed because the whole bar reeks? I don't get it. If I'm a Japanese bartender putting that much care into the drinks I'm making, there's no way in hell I'm letting you smoke at my bar.
Thankfully, there is a small area out front where you can drink outside. While we waited for the smoky bar seating inside that in retrospect, I wish we never got, we enjoyed a couple cocktails in the fresh air. We were eventually called in when a space at the bar opened up. I would have preferred to stay outside, but I didn't want to come off as a rude foreigner, so....into the smoke we went.
The bartender was fantastic, and was fairly stoked to talk to another absinthe fan. I was enjoying the conversation itself, attempting to smile through the pain. All in all, I made it through 3 cocktails, but had the air inside been something approaching breathable (seriously, is this too much to ask, Japan?) I could have stayed there all night drinking amazing cocktails and shooting the bull with the bartender. The music was fantastic as well. The whole vibe rocked my world, and I would have given it 10 stars, if not for the constant bloody smoking of the other patrons.
I'd love to come back, and just sit outside again. Failing that, if you don't want to be bowled over by smoke, try to get here right when it opens. That was the one way I found to make grabbing a drink in Japanese bars somewhat tolerable.....just get in and out before all the smokers arrive. Oh, and don't worry if you aren't much of an absinthe fan. There's plenty of awesome libations on the menu to be had without it as well. It's all artful and very well-done.