Jay Y.
Yelp
Its Turkish name describes this place better than its English name of Basilica Cistern. Yerebatan Sarnici is indeed a sunken palace.
Step below the ground level, and you will find yourself among the impressive rows of columns supporting the many arches of the ceiling. If you did not step down the descending stairs, you may think you were in an above-ground palace! However, thanks to its subterranean environment, Yerebatan Sarnici still gives an ambiance that no above-ground palace has. Maybe it's the Ottoman music that echoes resoundingly throughout. Maybe it's the mysterious darkness that is dimly lit only by subtle light that reflected from the columns. Maybe it's simply the cold dampness.
As you stroll through the columns, take a closer look and you will notice that not all columns are the same. Intended to be permanently flooded as a water storage without any plan of exposing to the public, Yerebatan Sarnici was constructed with various random columns of various styles from different abandoned or destroyed places. This dumpster of forgotten columns ironically formed a beautiful and bizarre collection. For instance, next to ionic columns may be a peculiar column with eyes, and columns too short are supported by misaligned Medusa head bases. This conglomeration of variety further adds to the air of mystery.
Unfortunately for me, Yerebatan Sarnici was not as magical as I had envisioned. Books described the fishes that swam among the columns for centuries, but now the columns are standing on dry ground and the fishes have diverted to a pathetic pool. Travel tales spoke of the interesting experience of sipping on coffee below ground level, but instead of a cafe, the only vendor is a tacky cosplay photo booth. Perhaps all these are temporary due to the ongoing restoration, but I was still slightly disappointed by what I saw.
Nonetheless, Yerebatan Sarnici is an interesting sight to see, because I believe that this mysterious air in this place can be felt only in person so no photo can do this place justice. The entrance is literally across the street from the must-go Ayasoyfa and the whole palace can be finished within an hour, so unless you are against spending 20 TL cash for admission, I can't see any reason why you would skip this unique experience. Indeed I was somewhat disappointed by the few negative changes, but I still believe that standing among the underground columns is an essential Istanbul experience that should not be missed.