Jenny K.
Yelp
On our visit to Rome, my friend and I took a pilgrimage to all four of the major Catholic Basilicas. We started with San Giovanni in Laterno (St. John) because it was within walking distance of our hotel. There were armed guards outside of the basilica searching visitors upon entrance, but we didn't mind the heightened security. It only took a few minutes to get through. Entrance was free as all churches in Rome are. The exterior of the basilica isn't eye-catching, but once we entered the church, I was blown away by its magnificence. I should mention I'm an atheist and could see how non-believers would view it as too much opulence and a waste of resources, but I was traveling with a Catholic friend and looked forward to the pilgrimage for the educational and historical value.
Built atop the barracks of Constantine's pagan enemies and consecrated in 318 after his victory over Maxentius, San Giovanni is the oldest church in the west. The Papal Cathedra (teaching seat) was placed in its interior making it the Cathedral of the Bishop of Rome. As such, it ranks above all other churches including St. Peter's Basilica in Vatican City, and is sometimes referred to as the "mother of all churches".
Attractions to San Giovanni include the original bronze doors of the Curia (Roman Senate House) moved here from the Roman Forum in the seventh century. The Pope visited San Giovanni just 3 days after we were there to open The Holy Door for the Jubilee Year of Mercy. For the coming Year of Mercy, Pope Francis has requested a Holy Door be designated available to people for sacred pilgrimage, so visit while you can.
Another attraction is the High Altar, which is the only altar made of wood instead of stone and encloses no relics, but is believed to be the actual wooden altar upon which St. Peter celebrated Mass during his residence in Rome. Carefully preserved through the years of persecution, it was brought by Constantine to San Giovanni where it would become the principle altar of the cathedral church of Rome. Above the High Altar is the baldacchino, a Gothic structure resting on four marble columns, and said to house the preserved heads of the Apostles Peter and Paul.
Another draw to San Giovanni is the 1000 pound gilded silver bas-relief of the Last Supper enshrined in cedar, said to have been part of the table used at the Last Supper. Finally, the obelisk outside of the basilica is the largest standing Egyptian Obelisk in the world. It was originally designated for Constantinople, but after Constantine died, was brought to Rome where it stands today.
Most of Italy's churches include small tour guide listening stations that for 2 euro will give 2 listeners 10-15 minutes of commentary on the history and salient points of a particular site. They're worth the time and small cost to know the significance of what you're looking at. We sought them out everywhere.
We visited the small gift shop in the basilica and purchased better quality crosses and rosaries than I saw displayed at any of the souvenir shops or vendor booths outside. You can pick up cheap stuff outside, but for the special people in my life, I purchased rosaries from one of the major basilicas because they were more authentic.
San Giovanni in Laterno is a must-see if churches are on your agenda for Rome.