Steph C.
Yelp
My friend Ava B. worked for a big DC law firm for many years, and when she quit, she did what many have dreamed about and straight-up moved to Paris. She rented a cute apartment in the Marais, where I went to visit her a couple weeks ago with our mutual friend Maka E. We got a taste of her Parisian life, starting with a wonderful dinner at Le Bistrot des Vosges, a pleasant walk from her place.
I suppose I'd pictured her, lazily, in a beret and Breton stripes, eating cheese and baguettes at a lovely little bistro, and honestly, it might as well have been this exact restaurant. Le Bistrot des Vosges felt quintessentially Parisian, quaint and comfortable, decorated with the kind of wall art that comes up when you google "vintage french posters." We went at 8:00 on a Thursday night after calling ahead to delay our 6:30 reservation. It wasn't that busy--it seemed like a no-fuss neighborhood restaurant. We got a cozy corner table against a window looking out to the street and settled in for a long catch-up dinner. Service was helpful and friendly, even when we were the last customers left.
I wanted a glass of red wine with my dinner, and Le Bistrot des Vosges had three options, all French wines, available in 12cl, 25cl, or 50cl pours. I got 25cl of the 2020 Olga Raffault Chinon Les Barnabes, a very nice wine and a heavy pour, 25cl being a third of a bottle.
The food was delicious. We started with the French onion soup, which is the restaurant's claim to fame (the menu calls it, modestly, "one of the best in Paris...according to our customers"). This was an extraordinary French onion soup, with soft, sweet onion, decadent, gooey cheese, and slices of baguette soaking up that rich, flavorful beef broth. It was perfect for a cold night. I cleaned my bowl and could probably have cleaned another. I did need room, though, for my tartare Aveyronnais. This was an entrée portion of steak tartare with shallot, onion, egg, and parsley on a bed of Genovese pesto with plenty of Rodez, a hard Aveyron cheese, shaved on top. It was hearty and satisfying, served with good fries and a small arugula salad. I also tried some of Ava's Aveyron-style terrine and it was excellent, served with salad and cornichons.
Ava suggested the homemade fondant for dessert, and since she was right about the onion soup and everything else, we followed her lead. This was a fantastic dessert, a warm, barely set chocolate fondant topped with a big scoop of vanilla ice cream.
I loved Le Bistrot de Vosges. It was a charming, convivial restaurant with great food at a reasonable enough price point that I'd go quite often if I lived in Paris. I don't live in Paris, of course, but at least Ava is there, eating her French onion soup at that corner table by the window. I hope to go back one of these days and join her again.