Anthony K.
Yelp
Lining up for what is supposed to be Victoria's hottest eatery was not too onerous in the 15 degree temperature. Brasserie L'ecole does not take reservations. From reading the reviews, nearly all five stars, the trick is to get there before 5:30 and join the line. Because the restaurant is small and fills quickly, you'll most likely be seated for much later. They'll text you when your table is ready. Ours was set for 8 p.m., and we were seated by 7:40. There are lots of nice bars in the area if you're inclined to wait.
Now, having to perform a 'trick' to simply get a table for dinner seems a little like jumping through one too many hoops. And, considering the success of the restaurant, I'm not quite sure why they don't take reservations. Still, it's their party. Was the wait and early line up worth it?
The restaurant has a great ID (you can even purchase the L'ecole aprons ($30), a welcoming host, and a nice ambiance. Lots of Dubbonet and Parisian posters. The bar looks cool. Brasserie L'ecole aims to be sophisticated and sexy. An adjustment here and there would make it more of both. A few (comfortable) demi lune booths and a jazzier ceiling would help.
The food? In general, excellent. The service, also excellent. Attentive, smiling servers. The wine list? French only with some interesting choices. If you love Parisian bistros, you'll find exactly what you want. We went with a $60 Languedoc that was a perfect accompaniment to our meal.
I had French Onion Soup and Steak Frites, my wife had Vancouver Island Mussels with Pernod and Sooke Trout with barley and beet reduction. The onion soup was beautifully presented with very tasty Gruyere, good, dark bread and an average broth. I prefer mine sweeter and more dense. This was the opposite. But, tasty. My $34 steak tasted delicious in a wonderful, light jus, but a little 'al dente' for that price. The frites were good, nothing special.
I purposefully chose my meals to compare to the Parisian style bistros I've in eaten elsewhere. The choices compared well, but still have a way to go to match the best I have experienced (Le Select Bistro in Toronto and Cafe de la Paix and Cafe Imperial in Paris -- all three about the same price as L'ecole, so a fair comparison).
The Island Mussels were excellent but the star of the evening was the Sooke Trout. Truly outstanding. Fresh, local produce and beautifully presented. It was superb and highly recommended if you are willing to jump the hoops to get a table.
So, a four star rating, losing only one star for the bread service (a thinly sliced baguette -- this simple service could be elevated and really bump up the experience), and for the line up only entrance.
$192 for two with two courses, wine, tax and tip.