Jeffrey S.
Yelp
A thought came to me recently as I've been thinking about trips to national parks, and thinking about crowds, getting out of them, and seeing parts of the park that are quiet, thoughtful, and less-traveled. That thought was pretty simple. I want to come back here.
There are so many parks and so many places in each park that I don't always want to re-visit old stops. But lately that's changed and I want to go back to a lot of them. Sometimes it's just because the first trip was special. Sometimes it's because enough time has passed that you now wonder how you would be changed by a place, now that you're a new person and that place remains unchanged. And sometimes you just want to take someone new and see it through their eyes.
I've been in this campground a couple of times, but I've only stayed there once. It sits on the north side of the river, adjacent to Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the Grand Canyon. My stay was in the winter and it was lesser-traveled, though I'm sure it's booked up and busy most of the year as this park is the most popular in the whole parks system.
The campground itself is pretty simple, there are a couple dozen sites and each one has a picnic table, a hanger for your gear, and an ammo can where you need to store all of your food to keep it away from pests. The animals here are alarmingly accustomed to humans, and I've had run-ins with deer who are more like entitled hikers as they hog the trail and just roll their eyes at you. The campground is clean (no one drives up in their car and unloads a bunch of trash) but do make sure you show the utmost respect to this area. The whole canyon is special and a sacred place. The campground has water and toilets.
Getting here is no small task. As they say, "Going down is optional, coming up is not." You descend several thousand feet from either rim, as this is accessible by the Bright Angel Trail (via the short River Trail that connects to the bridge), South Kaibab, and North Kaibab Trails. Downhill is brutal on knees and ankles, and you have to be in shape. Going up is brutal on everything. If you're staying at Bright Angel Campground, you're probably backpacking and you need to pack light, and know your limits. Give yourself time. You can break up the trip and also stop and Indian Garden and the campground there if you don't want to do it all in one day.
There's plenty to do here. It's so odd that you have Phantom Ranch right here, and you can go over and get a drink or snack. If you book ahead of time, you can buy your meals here and have a nice meal. It's spendy, but for crying out loud, they have to pack it in by mule every time! I've taken the hike north to Ribbon Falls which is a nice day activity if you're spending a few nights here. Or you can just lounge at the campground and let your body recover. Shade is a premium in the scorching summer, and winter is bone chilling cold. The shoulder season is nice but crowded, so you really just pick your poison.
As I sit here right now in my house in the city, I close my eyes tightly and I can hear the roar of the Colorado River in my mind. I'm back at the campground at the bottom of the canyon. We've left the madness of the village and wandered down through the magic canyon, crossed the bridge, and we're in the tent living our very best life. The moon is glowing and I can *just* imagine it. It's a special place. I'm feeling it -- I do want to go back.