Samuel C.
Yelp
Survival Rule Number 1 in Bergen.
If you are in the Old City, think long and hard about eating on the waterfront.
There are a LOT of tourist establishments there. Prices are sky-high.
(No, Yelper, it is not the case that Bergen is expensive and the waterfront prices are what you should expect.
The waterfront is where tourists get gouged.
The real city has reasonable prices.)
Another hallmark of a tourist restaurant is a limited menu - often of exactly the same dishes every other tourist restaurant is offering.
Whale Carpaccio.
Halibut and Salmon served together in two sauces.
Execution at many of these places can be excellent.
But when you see your credit card bill at the end of the month, you may want to have yourself executed as well.
* * *
Moving away from the waterfront increases the chances of getting a more complex and diverse menu, with possibly a break in price.
Bryggen Tracteursted is at the end of a long tunnel about 2/3 of a block away from the waterfront.
Two restaurants come in front of it to draw off 'naive' tourists.
Because they are "stuck in the rear", they have to compete on the basis of superior food.
Bryggen Tracteursted has a menu about twice as long as the tourist restaurants with lots of entertaining and unusual items.
They also have a terrific bar program with a great selection of sour Norwegian beers, and a fantastic collection of aquavits.
Plus note: Their aquavits are kept in the freezer and served cold. This is not the case in many other establishments and it is how aquavit is meant to be served.
* * *
The absolute standout "food to be remembered" dish was a dessert.
Fresh plums were spiced - but NOT cooked.
This was not some worn out dreary compote.
The plums were as firm and well textured as if you ate them out of the tree.
And yet somehow, without marinating them enough to make them mushy, they were entirely infused with a divine gingerbread spice mix.
I still can't figure out how they did it, but the taste was out of this world.
Better yet, heh heh ....
They were covered with a sherried whipped cream.
I had never thought of mixing sherry with whipped cream.
But sherry and whipped cream are like plug and socket, dynamite and a match, or chips and queso.
These all were meant to be together.
The harmony was the harmony of the spheres.
* * *
Other treats.
a) A nifty cheese plate of a prize winning artisanal Norwegian blue cheese.
The cheese was mild, sweet and suave and delightfully rich.
Most blue cheeses are meant to put up a fight.
This cheese was as welcoming as Mr. Rogers.
I could like this cheese exactly as it was.
b) A fine herring appetizer.
c) A superlative apple brandy. (This was a recommendation from the house.)
d) Rye bread to kill for. (It came with the blue cheese.)
* * *
There was one mis-step during the evening - and I should have known enough to avoid it.
Dried cod was the leading export of Norway. Norway provides all the Bacalhao to Portugal, Brazil and Spain, and all the Morue to France.
I was just at the Norwegian Fisheries Museum.
Naturally I just HAD to have dried cod in Bergen.
After all, Bergen is the ancestral home of all dried cod.
I should have known better. Every time I have had bacalhao in Portugal or Brazil, it has been expensive and unimpressive.
I always promise myself I will order cheaper tastier items from elsewhere on the menu next time.
One part of me wanted to order a very intriguing veal dish.
But dried cod is what I told the waitress.
How was it?
Well, the vegetables were lovely and the mustard sauce was just fine.
But the fish was still dried codfish.
Even the finest kitchen can't turn bacalhao into much more than a big thick slice of fish cardboard.
* * *
So do yourself a favor and order something from the non-dried-codfish part of the menu.
Enjoy the room (which is super cozy and comforting.)
Enjoy the aquavits. Enjoy your appetizers and desserts and non-codfish entrees.
And look at the poor suckers being bled up near the waterfront side of the block, and think to yourself ...
"There But For the Grace of God, Go I".