Bandicoot C.
Yelp
On a quiet corner of the Wrangelkiez, under the plastic yellow glow of a massive Lidl sign, Jolesch has to fake its upscale atmosphere a bit. Nobody really expects to find creative Austrian cuisine with formal old-school manners here, but they do seem to be attracting the crowds.
And they're well deserved; most of what comes out of the kitchen really is spectacular. The chef has a wonderful touch with game meats such as venison and rabbit, and hits all the right buttons on Austrian standards such as Tafelspitz. While they don't do slabs of meat overhanging the plate, they go the extra mile with flavor and freshness with an eye on tradition. And an eye elsewhere - the Jerusalem artichoke soup with coffee-aroma and smoked rabbit is an absolute knockout that seems to have come out of nowhere.
The biggest downside is your grandma's wine list - boring, uninspired and overpriced compared to the good-value food. And don't bother with extras such as the side-salad, which seemed to have been dressed only with ice water.
Atmosphere looks a little stiff at first - giant paintings, faux finishes, high walls in dark greens and reds all suggest old Prussia, and the effect might make you giggle in a kiez ruled by graffiti-glam and urban chic. But the super-friendly, highly skillful service and the reasonably priced menu bring it all down to earth; somehow, it works.