Jon T.
Yelp
To begin with, I am adding one star for the local diner atmosphere. Friends from the area told us about the mother ship of loose-meat sandwiches located in a tiny diner in Ottumwa, facing an alley, under a parking garage. We took a different route to central Iowa to visit the parental T units and timed it perfectly to be here for lunch on a Friday. The diner is small with a horseshoe bar and very little room behind the stools. We got lucky. When we arrived several people got up to leave and we were able to be seated immediately. We were there maybe 30 minutes total and the place was packed the entire time, with people standing waiting for a stool at the bar or a take-out order. There were a half-dozen ladies scurrying around preparing and serving food. There was an odd odor in the building, not grease, more like dead fish. I'm just reporting, I can't explain it.
We each had a loose-meat sandwich. Ms T had mustard, I had pickle and mustard. This is the way we would order a Maid-Rite. The buns are soft and white and are pretty large, to hold the meat, but they border on being a little too much bread. My only real complaint was that the bun was cold. They at least need to be room temperature. The meat is simple and good, with little if any seasoning except salt. It is not as finely ground as a Maid-Rite and was not as uniformly broken up. There were some lumps of meat and in fact I had some crunchy browned bits from the bottom of the pan, which were not necessarily bad. It was definitely not greasy.
Ms T had the obligatory chocolate malt which was big, real, quite malty and good. I had a slice of strawberry rhubarb pie. The pie was OK, with definite strawberry flavor complimenting the rhubarb, but lacked enough sweetness. I know a lot of rhubarb pie lovers like it tart. The crust was pretty commercial.
I'm sure this place has its local adherents who claim superiority over Maid-Rite. Both were started in the 1920's and I'm not sure which was first. This one just did not turn into a franchised chain. I have eaten many, many Maid-Rites in a number of their restaurants. They can be fabulous and they can be poor. The loose-meat sandwich at Canteen Lunch was no better than an above average Maid-Rite. It was better than some, not as good as the best. Our service was very quick and friendly.
I would not drive a great distance out of my way to go here, but would certainly not avoid it next time I am passing through Ottumwa. The place is, again, one of those old diners that I love and the food is fine. It was certainly worth the trip for lovers of old diners and local flavors.