David J.
Yelp
Situated in a series of buildings that made up the old Catalan Royal Palace, the title makes this museum sound rather boring, but in fact it's a real discovery: the main part of the museum is actually a series of labyrinths, deep beneath the existing buildings and streets, showing the results of excavations covering the Roman period through to the 9th-century Visigothic era.
There is a small selection of high-quality artifacts on display at various points, but the labyrinths steal the show. Roman laundries, workshops, wineries, early churches, a bishop's palace and roads are all explored via a series of elevated walkways.
Displays are in Spanish and Catalan, with some English, but a comprehensive audio guided tour is included in the price, in a wide number of languages. If I have a criticism, it's that despite all the effort that has clearly been made, the interpretation is often still rather confusing, especially for such large and complex three-dimensional sites. It's also a very long walk underground, so children may begin to get a bit bored and elderly people tired (there are some seats to rest along the way, but not that many).
The tour finishes with the chance to visit the impressive chapel of St Agata and the 14th-Century Hall of the Royal Palace, known as the Salo de Tinell. Here the inquisition met, and the steps leading to the Placa del Rei are where Ferdinand and Isabella stood to receive Columbus on his return from the Americas. Unfortunately, both the last rooms, impressive though they undoubtedly are, are devoid of the furnishings and interpretation that might bring them to life. But the Placa itself, where you exit, is a wonderful space.