Steph C.
Yelp
We took a six-hour Appian Way bike tour last Sunday, and it included a one-hour stop at Le Catacombe di San Callisto, or the Catacomb of Callixtus. The place was incredible. It was apparently built sometime in the 2nd century, then used as the burial ground for several popes before falling into disuse for about a thousand years. The site was rediscovered by an Italian archaeologist in 1854. What a crazy thing to find, a city of the dead containing generations of papal remains.
We got our tickets and joined a group with the English language tour guide. I didn't get her name, but she was excellent, and obviously knew all there was to know about the Catacomb. She gave us a great overview of the place's history, as well as a wealth of trivia as we went underground and explored the relevant rooms and corridors. We only saw a tiny part of the catacomb complex, which covers ninety acres, with the length of the passageways coming out to about twelve miles.
It was an amazing experience, descending and wandering those ancient tunnels, which felt less creepy than hallowed by time. Our guide showed us surviving artwork and gave us valuable insight into what we were seeing--this tomb sized for a child, this chamber decorated for a family of great wealth. We also learned the origins of the Jesus fish. I'd always assumed it was from the loaves and the fishes, but I guess it was a cheesy 1st century Greek acrostic.
The catacomb was cleared of bones--too many tourists taking them as grisly souvenirs--but we did see the oldest remains I've ever seen, two actual bodies in glass that weren't much more than mummified dust and the odd recognizable shard of femur. I'm not especially macabre, but this was fascinating.
I couldn't help but wonder how many people had been murdered down there in those miles of quiet passageways over the course of a couple thousand years. Every chamber seemed like a good place to pull a Cask of Amontillado.
Not anymore, of course. There were cameras everywhere, making sure we behaved ourselves. We were expressly forbidden, with great emphasis, from taking pictures or video once we entered the catacomb.
I don't think I'll ever forget this place, even without the help of awkward crypt selfies. If you have a chance to visit Le Catacombe di San Callisto, it's worth the slight detour from central Rome.