Andrew H.
Yelp
Amazing.
Climb.
Probably one of the best multi-pitch rock climbs I have ever done.
We started very late and ended up going down in the dark. I don't recommend this for one main reason:
The descent is not straight-forward by headlamp.
I found the description from SuperTopo to be a bit confusing, so here's my description (in case you don't heed my advice and try to roll this sucker late in the day):
You are going to want to down-climb the last 10-15 ft of the summit pinnacle. The section you JUST climbed up to reach the tiny summit. Down-lead this (or better yet, just leave your pro in from the ascent) and build an anchor at the base. (I know this seems like a stupidly short "pitch" to build an anchor for, but, TRUST ME. The rope drag is heinous if you try to go around the corner and then anchor-in.) Then do a running belay/simul-climb around the corner (you are now going AWAY from the face you just climbed up). Once around the corner, go slightly right (skier's right). Once you've done this, just keep going left and down, gradually, on easy 3rd class terrain (we took the rope off at this point). When it starts to look easy to go right, traverse right until you pop out on the other side of the mountain. You'll probably do some minor bush-whacking, just try to keep hopping on those big granite boulders!
The SuperTopo seems to say that you hook back right a lot sooner (after going down-left), the terrain there looked like very run-out/, 5th class slab (read: skeery), so we did not do this.
OK, now that we've talked about the boring part (getting down), let's talk about the FUN part: climbing up.
It's 5 pitches of 5.6-5.7 on glorious granite with ample spots for pro.
You can run it out with ease, knowing there is always going to be a place to get your nuts in.
This is the complete opposite of "Snake Dike" on Half Dome in that regard.
We did the far-left (climber's left) variation. I think it's variation "A" in the guide book.
We decided to simul-climb the first two pitches, this was a good call.
The beginning of pitch 1 is very easy (low-5th and even 4th class) by the time it gets more difficult, the leader will already be at the 2nd anchor and the second can be belayed up.
If you're a strong climber you could even keep going and link all three of the first pitches!
Every pitch is fun, with great moves and great positioning.
I'd make sure you are not wearing a pack or gear sling for the start of pitch 4, as the chimney is kinda tight in the beginning. Or maybe I'm just getting fat?
I lead the last two pitches by headlamp, a new experience, and shockingly more fun that scary.
If you do this, I'd start either insanely early or insanely late, in order to avoid the crowds.
Have fun!