David J.
Yelp
Dominating the centre of Tournai, the Cathedral is the largest in Belgium, and a UNESCO World Heritage Ssite by virtue of its architecture, treasures and its history.
Built on the site of an earlier Christian sanctuary, the nave and transepts date from the middle of the 12th century, and are classics of romanesque architecture. The crossing has a squat central bell-tower, flanked on each corner by a further four towers with pyramidal caps, each reaching 83m. This forms the most distinctive feature of the cathedral, and gives the appearance of a 'forest' of towers at its centre. Another distinctive feature is the rounded apsidal transepts. The choir was rebuilt in a dramatic gothic style and on a grand scale in the mid 13th century, aping that of nearby Amiens.
After the dramatic exterior, the interior is currently something of a disappointment: the nave has been plastered in a plain style (and painted a vile pale pink) which conceals much of its character, and the aisles are currently obscured by renovation works. At the crossing is the splendid classical rood-screen, designed and built in 1672 by Cornelis Devriendt. Beyond that, the choir is currently off-limits to visitors and entirely filled with scaffolding for renovation works, which are scheduled to take several years longer. (Once fully open, this will be a five-star attraction).
But the other glory of Tournai is still accessible, and that is its Treasury. Tournai has one of the most stunning collections of mediaeval church silver in the world, including the incredible reliquary shrine made by Nicholas de Verdun in 1205. Nearly a metre long, and in the shape of a chapel, it is heavily decorated in gold, silver and gilt. Other treasures include an 8th century Byzantine cross, and clothing belonging to St Thomas a Becket from Canterbury. Unsuprisingly, photographs are not allowed, and access to the Treasury is through a huge reinforced door...