Dinh Phong NGUYEN
Google
Story time! Recently I saw a @callanboys post talking about The Chairman Restaurant in Hong Kong. It's one of the most difficult reservations to make in HK given its previous No. 1 restaurant in Asia status and endless other merits. They do Cantonese classics, but with a focus on innovation, creativity and presentation. Possibly the most famed dish on their menu is the 'steamed fresh flowery crab with aged shaoxing wine, fragrant chicken oil and flat rice noodles'.
Who knew that the Chairman Restaurant had Australian ties? When I was in Canberra last weekend, I met a chef who told me 'Chairman & Yip' in Canberra was a sister restaurant. The 'Yip' in the name was actually Danny Yip, who was the original restaurant partner before he headed back to Hong Kong for other ventures and opened the Chairman Restaurant years later. This Canberra sister, although less decorated, has also lived a long and fulfilling life. They have their own version of that crab dish using mud crab and pippies too! Far out! I was told the shaoxing wine wasn't as aged because of the Aussie palette. I find the sauce doesn't have crazy character on it's own, but it damn sure intensifies the sweet, delicious taste of the crab meat when eaten together.
They do things a little differently too. Less large share plates, and more individual dishes with wines to match. Again, to suit the Australian clientele. And despite straying away from traditional Cantonese comfort cooking, the dishes here maintain comfort in their own way. We start on a egg white winter melon blended soup, with spanner crab and salted egg yolk oil, and a fried glutinous rice dumpling (you might recognise the 'ham sui gok' dim sum) but with a curry puff inspired filling, a nod to HK's South Asian community. Then shallot oil noodles, but using Japanese soba and with royal red prawns which were so sweet and soft. Our eyes lit up when the steamed crab and aged barramundi arrived upon the table. Let's just say we left completely buzzed, and mate, how good is wine with Cantonese food?
Thank you to the Chairman & Yip team for the great conversation. Made our Canberra trip very special 🙂
📍Chairman & Yip, Canberra