John B.
Yelp
It really lives up to the name more than I expected. This museum is on the waterfront and comprises a mix of exhibitions that really do seem to capture the maritime history of the entire bay.
Admittedly, I write out of sentimentality. I discovered that they are building a new Maryland Dove (previously a landmark on my daily walks), the re-created sailing vessel that sits at St. Mary's City. I asked what happened to the old one, and got a story about how it looked nice but was not constructed by traditional methods and was not approved for passengers (I always wondered why). On top of that, a documentary on the ship was available for playing in one of the buildings, as well as a 3D camera view from its mast that you could scroll around by hand. Anyway, you can see the new ship being built, but that's hardly the only thing on offer.
One of those quaint wooden lighthouses was open for viewing, and several independent exhibit halls covered topics ranging from oyster harvesting to recreational canoeing. There was beautiful photography, and interesting history, including a house owned by Frederick Douglass's family. Smith Island, the War of 1812, and one of those famous pictures of an island house sinking into the bay. It's all really thought provoking. And while you walk around between these buildings, you're getting a nice view out on to the water.
There are a lot of tight lines to walk in terms of discussing history and environmental issues without dumbing them down or creating Manichean narratives, and I thought the museum did a pretty good job of that. You get a sense of the environmental destruction the bay has suffered over the years, but the museum is hardly anti-waterman, and it even makes the case that some harvesting is sustainable.
I was a bit disappointed that no boat rides seemed to be happening when I visited (not sure if it's COVID or the seasons, but normally there are some boat tours), but making allowances for that, I could a couple of very filling hours for my modest admission fee. The gift shop was respectable as well, and I bought something (not that common of an occurrence for me). Parking is free and plentiful, and it's easy to walk around the town and find something to eat from here.
By comparison, I'm struck with my experiences in the Charleston area, which has heavily invested in environmental and historical tourism, and Maryland's Eastern Shore, which is largely a set of gentrified McMansions that tourists bypass on their way to the beach. I probably drove or was driven dozens of times by this area without ever getting out of the car before I started exploring it during the pandemic because it was good for social distancing. For us DC area folks, the Eastern Shore is not on our radar; there's a class of people that own boats, and then there's the rest of us. But I visit this museum and the area and wonder what the best way is for all of us to enjoy the fantastic natural resources we have here.