Melissa Natalie C.
Yelp
If you're using Yelp in France you might be a tourist. That's ok, because I was too. Now, I love Yelp in the mainland States - it's used a lot there, and the locals post reviews with their Critical Thinking hats on, and almost always it's steered me straight. Then one day in Puerto Rico, my husband and I realized what tends to happen when Yelp's user base is 90% people who just got off a cruise ship from Florida and the local base is nonexistent. You eat some really overhyped Mofungo.
So straight dope - I'm a tourist in France and you might be too. What do I know about French cuisine? Dare I make a claim such as "not a tourist trap" or "locals eat here"?
I THINK these two things are true. And I can tell you, I am an expert with a PhD if PhD stands for "Phabulously Delicious," which it does in this context.
Chez Toinette is small, and a lot of spots in Montmartre are. It seems to be run by two, possibly three people. Dinner takes a long time. You realize that's ok. You're there to enjoy a bevy of food with the appropriate attention that it deserves. I've read several negative reviews of French restaurants where the criticism revolves around not being welcomed quickly or served in Outback Steakhouse-minutes. This is not that place, and you don't want it to be.
Try speaking French, if you can, even if it's just a little.
We led with the escargot, which was buttery. I then devoured the veal. My husband had the glazed duck breast, which is more accurately described as a succulent Duck Steak, if such a thing exists. I wish I could remember the veal better so that I could describe the flavor to you exactly, but it was more like an existential experience that I will hold close to my heart forever. I remember that it was amazing, like being gently massaged by an angel in a dream, so I guess you could say that I recommend it.
We stayed for dessert (the glazed pear) and aperitifs. We strongly recommend you do the same. This will add another 45 minutes to your stay, but since restaurants in Montmatre seem to have no interest in turning your table, this does not matter. It is, in fact, desired, by you and the restaurant.
I tried to order one particular aperitif, and was corrected by the waiter, which I appreciate, because he was right. He knew better. Feel free to ask them what they recommend. The people we sat next to joked around with us as well in broken English. There were some other Americans, some Canadians, and some French. No tables flipped - everyone was there for the night. And what a night it 'twas. Fortunately for me and my American tolerance level, we were staying at an AirBnB across the street.
Just let them go at their own pace and enjoy it. I am not an expert in French cuisine - I have enjoyed four good dinners there, and this was the best experience.