Stefano Donghi
Google
Visiting the Capuchin Crypt in Rome was one of the most unusual and thought-provoking experiences of my trip to the Eternal City. Located right next to Piazza Barberini, under the church of Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini, this small site left a much deeper impression on me than many larger and more famous attractions.
The visit begins with a small museum that introduces the history of the Capuchin friars and their way of life, focused on austerity, humility, and reflection on death. This was already interesting, but nothing prepared me for the atmosphere of the crypt itself.
Once you step into the underground chapels, you are immediately struck by the silence, the dim light, and above all the unusual “decorations.” The bones of about 3,700 friars, exhumed centuries ago, have been arranged in incredible patterns across the walls and ceilings. Skulls, femurs, vertebrae, and pelvises are not simply stacked; they form arches, crosses, rosettes, and even chandeliers. At first, it feels eerie, almost unsettling, but after a few moments the artistic and symbolic meaning takes over.
Each of the five chapels has a specific theme. The most powerful, in my opinion, was the Crypt of the Three Skeletons, where a skeletal figure holds a scythe and a scale. Above it is written the unforgettable phrase: “What you are now, we once were; what we are now, you shall be.” It is a direct, unavoidable reminder of human mortality. Reading those words surrounded by thousands of bones is something I will never forget.
What impressed me most was that the crypt does not feel grotesque or disrespectful. On the contrary, the way the bones are displayed conveys a sense of peace and reflection. The Capuchins wanted to create a memento mori, a visual sermon about the fleeting nature of life and the importance of living with humility and faith. Even if one is not religious, the message is universal and extremely powerful.
From an artistic point of view, the compositions are astonishing. To see how skulls are used to create decorative borders or how ribs form symmetrical designs is both macabre and beautiful. It reminded me that art can emerge from the most unexpected materials, even from human remains, and still carry deep meaning.
The whole visit took me about 40 minutes, but it stayed with me for days. I left the crypt thoughtful, a little shaken, but grateful for the experience. It is not a place for everyone—some may find it too unsettling—but for those who appreciate history, spirituality, and unusual art, it is absolutely worth it.
Practical note: the crypt opens daily, and photos are not allowed, which actually helps preserve the atmosphere. The entrance fee also includes the museum upstairs.
In conclusion, the Capuchin Crypt is not just another stop in Rome—it is a unique and unforgettable experience. It is at once strange, beautiful, and moving, a reminder that life is short and precious. Among all the things I saw in Rome, this is the one that made me reflect the most. I would highly recommend it to anyone looking for something beyond the classic monuments, something that speaks directly to the soul.