Jen K.
Yelp
Unicorns do exist... at least in France. And if you doubt me, you should visit the Lady and the Unicorn tapestries (La Dame à la Licorne) at the Musée de Cluny in Paris.
Because I will do almost anything to avoid a line, I made strategic use of my time by starting my day here. Rather than fight the mass of humanity at the Louvre or Musee d'Orsay, I purchased my Paris Museum Pass here and was given the choice of paying in US dollars or Euros. No lines and no waiting at 9:15a on a Saturday and the staff was lovely.
This is officially called the National Museum of the Middle Ages (Le musée national du Moyen Âge) and the location, l'hôtel des abbés de Cluny, is a wonderful backdrop for the collection. It is a mix of architecture, some of it crumbling, and the earliest structure are the ruins of Roman baths from the third century.
The highlight of the collection, which I almost missed, are the tapestries. Many books have been written about the Lady and the Unicorn trying to unlock its secrets and interpret the story. All six of these 15th century works of woven art are displayed here in its own gallery at the top of the stairs on the second floor. The focal point of each are the Lady, a lion and a unicorn, with various other creatures. The first five represent the different senses (for example, touch shows the lady's hand on the unicorn's horn). The sixth scene is interpreted different ways, but generally considered to be love. The red and blue hues are beautiful.
There is a small chapel on site, and some beautiful wood and stone carving, stained glass and other relics from this time period. Compared to the hustle and bustle of other locations, I found this a peaceful place to start my day.
I have to admit that I was blown away by this museum at first, but then ended up visiting a few other museums that put my initial impressions into perspective. If you are fascinated by this time period, then I highly recommend a visit. It all depends on what appeals to you and this type of collection isn't an option for me in the U.S., which made it particularly interesting.
Just don't miss the unicorn.
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-- Part of the Paris Museum Pass.
-- Photography permitted without flash.