Fitzwilliam D.
Yelp
This place has a storied reputation, but for me it builds anticipation only to crush hopes later on. Every single time: Recently. Previously in 2015. Initially in 2011. Yet, I've no idea what the allure is: what draws me in, why I keep coming back, or why I care - when it's clearly not meant to be. I guess, it's ineffable. And our differences, irreconcilable - given their strong commitment: to history, to what's worked well in the past. At an Intellectual level, their philosophy makes sense. I completely understand.
Luxemburgerli. What their website alternately describes as "legendary", "world famous", a "fascinating delicacy", and "a success story". I'm sure the Luxemburgerli make Sprungli tons of money. I have only one question of the confiserie: if it's all that, then why (yourself) also describe it as a "mini macaroon"?
I call it: a baking mistake. I'm sorry for being blunt. Yes, I've always been a contrarian. But, it takes an outsider to see something clearly, stripped to its essence. A Luxemburgerli was someone's interpretation of an ideal: a macaron. Before the age of internet. I'm willing to bet top dollar that most of the people buying this "fascinating delicacy" think they are buying a macaron. It's not. Close, but no cigar. Settling for a Luxemburgerli as opposed to a real macaron is just that... settling. The flavors are too subtle, the shells crispier, and the proportions just off.
I used to think alcohol could fix any baking mistake. As I ate the Chocoladen Traum Patisserie (Chocolate Dream), that experiential learning from my amateur baking days seemed to ring true. The pastry seemed monotonous despite the chocolate intensity: chocolate biscuit, chocolate cream, but I kept nibbling at it for some reason. Till I realized, it was the subtle charm of the maraschino liqueur that was toying with me and keeping me hooked. There's good reason why this liqueur made from Marasca cherries has been described in critical reviews as a "secret weapon" for your liqueur cabinet. It singlehandedly made me keep coming back for more. Ultimately, making me forget the disappointment from the Matterhorn slice: hazelnut biscuit pastry with alternating layers of chocolate cream and enrobed in chocolate ganache.
But, no. Alcohol, or indeed any "secret weapon", can't fix every baking mistake. Not even the Champagne flavor could make me love that Luxemburgerli... Hey, Pierre Herme: Luxemburgerli are proof that not all Americans like macarons because they remind them of hamburgers! ;)