Austin B.
Yelp
tl;dr the tangy, flavorful fry sauce overshadows the iconic but dull pastrami burger
Crown Burgers, founded in 1978, is the first and largest of Utah's independent, Greek-owned burger bistros, best known for their eponymous, pastrami-laden burgers. Crown Burgers has become one of Utah's most popular local fast food purveyors, and recently it was even featured on Man v. Food. During a recent, whirlwind visit to Utah, I was eager to sample some of the Beehive State's most unique regional foods. And Crown Burgers allowed me to knock out 2: pastrami burgers and Thousand Island-adjacent fry sauce.
The Salt Lake City Center location is a few blocks walk from Temple Square. The sign is decorated with a cartoony crown, and the large, stone-walled restaurant looks like it must have been a fancier business in the past life. The vast interior is vaguely medieval-themed, between the tacky floral wallpaper, ornate chandeliers, bolted and upholstered chairs, and over-the-top fireplace and mantle. Order from the overwhelming menu posted up front on flat screens behind the long, laminate marble counter. The bustle from the kitchen is occasionally interrupted as the staff shout out an order number.
Our group of 6 arrived for late weekday lunch, and the diverse menu offered an option for everyone. We ordered an assortment of sandwiches, salads, and sides, and our large meal was prepared within 10 minutes. The aforementioned Crown Burger was larger and more substantial than the likes of McDonald's, and it was loaded with dry pastrami. The onion rings were loosely breaded and bland, while the steakhouse-cut fries were limp and undersalted. Even the chili fries were dull, dolloped with a scoop of ground beef-laden, fast food-quality chili and a slice of American cheese. All of the mostly forgettable food served only as a conduit for the tasty, tangy fry sauce.
Service was brusque and efficient, like any other fast food joint, and the food was moderately filling and relatively affordable (the Crown Burger proper was about $8.50). Crown Burgers is a beloved regional icon, and I will admit that it is far and away superior to Texas' Whataburger. But to my unsentimental eye, it can't break the mold of (slightly upscale) fast foodery. Go for the experience --and the fry sauce -- but don't hold your breath for anything mind-blowing.