Nancy L.
Yelp
"Cooking school" is a misnomer for De Gustibus; cooking demonstration is more appropriate and can be more appealing depending on your mood. I've gone to cooking classes where I had lots of fun chopping, stirring and getting my hands dirty. But when I went to De Gustibus on a Monday night after a long work day, sitting back and getting fed was all I wanted to do and exactly what I got.
Given that this is a cooking demo, the instructor can really make or break the experience. When I went, Jason Hall, the Chef de Cuisine from Gotham Bar and Grill was the instructor. Jason was nice and patiently answered everyone's questions, but he doesn't have a huge personality, and I can see a more gregarious instructor taking the De Gustibus experience from good to great. Whatever reticence Jason showed, however, was made up for by Salvatore, the owner of De Gustibus. Salvatore kept a constant dialogue going with the instructor, asking conversation-generating questions and made sure everything was running smoothly.
The food itself was good, but the portions were surprisingly on the smaller side. I left feeling satiated, but not full (I believe this is how most of the healthy world eats), and my dinner date said she'd probably have to eat more food when she got home. There was an amuse-bouche of delicata and kabocha squash with a curry emulsion then full demonstrations of a white wine coq au vin chicken dish, a confited duck leg, milk-braised veal breast, and a braised beef short rib. There was a bit of a lag time between what the chef was demonstrating and when the food for consumption was cooked, and most of the dishes came out lukewarm, taking away from the flavor. From what I remember, only the braised beef short rib came out at the right temperature, and it was delicious. De Gustibus was pretty generous with the wine though, and the servers offered to pour seconds and even thirds.
There were definitely times when I got antsy waiting for the next course to arrive. George Faison from meat purveyor DeBragga was there and explained a lot of the finer details of butchering, which I personally wasn't interested in, but I can see how some more ambitious New Yorkers would want to know how to butcher their own veal. I'm just glad there was no blood or the sound of bones breaking.
Given the classroom-like setup of the space, I'd recommend those who are going to learn (versus to eat) get there earlier and sit in the first few rows. There's a giant mirror that hangs over the chef's station so that everyone can see what he's doing, but an amphitheater style seating would've been ideal (wishful thinking on my part given De Gustibus's location in Macy's). Just as you'll find in your typical classroom, the back rows of my class were filled with chatty/thirsty people who became a little too chatty at times.
Overall though, the setup is good, the food at least decent and you can be as engaged (or disengaged) as you want to be. I'm not sure what the exact relationship is between De Gustibus and Macy's, but I'd consider the partnership a smart ingredient branding (ha) move on Macy's part as it raised Macy's profile in my mind and presented a good opportunity to advertise the kitchenware they carry.