John Hernlund
Google
Dogo Onsen is a stunning piece of architecture and a must-see for anyone visiting the region. In fact, it is worth going there just to see it. To see the interior, it is necessary to buy a ticket and take a bath. The building was recently renovated, and a lot of its spaces were rearranged and updated.
So, how did the renovation go? The constructors worked hard to maintain many of the classical elements, and there is much quality craftsman construction to see. On the other hand, they carelessly installed cheap interior lighting in certain places, running wires through pipes hastily attached to walls, and other out-of-place blemishes that are totally unnecessary in my view and detract from this world heritage monument.
The bathing experience also changed. The bath areas on the 1st floor are much smaller now, and of course very crowded. I went to the main ground floor bath twice, once on a weekend and then another time on a rainy Monday morning (not a holiday), yet both times I had to wait to approach a changing locker, wait to sit at a washing station, and there was no space to sit in the bath (it was completely filled with bodies) so I also had to wait for that, too. And when I entered the water, it was only lukewarm, it wasn't even hot! To top it off, many of the Japanese men using the bath did NOT wash before entering the bath, they sprayed a few drops of water on their shoulder for a couple seconds, and then went straight into the common bath...gross! Meanwhile all of the foreign tourists were carefully following the instructions to wash the entire body (with soap) before entering.
In any case, it is not a relaxing bathing experience, and I would never recommend going to this onsen for the bath. Go there for the architecture, and the history. If you want a nice bath experience, go to the new Dogo Onsen only ~100m from the old building.