William C.
Yelp
I'm an American in England for a year as a student. I've been trying to take day, or overnight, trips to experience the history and culture. It is also noteworthy that I am a student of History and that always colors my experience and perspective of historical museums and the like.
I was really excited about visiting this site. Most historical sites have a particular era or event to attach themselves to. This place has history from the Roman era forward, and is luckily situated in a way where these histories don't entirely obstruct the tangible parts of the previous histories. For example, the Roman lighthouse is intact and (largely) unchanged by later builders like the Saxons who build the church immediately next door a thousand years later.
Onsite is a multitude of historical themes, so this feels a little like actually visting several museums very near to each other. There is the Roman, the Saxon, the Medieval, the Napoleonic era, WWI, WWII, and a bit of Cold War, and probably a few sub-genre could be added. It seems to me that full experience of the whole place could not be done properly in a single day. ( I state this to inspire you to show up early and to suggest to the proprietors of this place that a two-day ticket might be a good option)
My wife and I decided, first, to do the 1 hour tour in the tunnels relating to the Dunkirk evacuations of WWII. This is a major event of both British History and, for non-Brits, WWII in general. The best part of the tour is the guided opportunity to go down into the tunnels within the Cliffs of Dover. I imagine, if this were done in America liability and insurance fears would have scuttled this type of tour, but here it was done and I appreciated that. The presentation is done well, and the multimedia is pretty impressive, but I felt like the pazazz of the light show that they used for the experience felt too artificial and over the top. It prevented me from clear and uncomplicated observation of the space. I suspect this goes over very well with youngsters, but for myself it was a distraction, and the content could have been watched on a documentary on Netflix or something. Additionally, their narrative was a bit fragmented. Consequently, after finishing the tour my wife (a non-historian) was in need of some Q&A to help reconstruct what the presentation was trying to narrate for us. My summary of this part of the Dover site as a whole, is that it was my least favorite part.
After that we went up to the Roman lighthouse and the Saxon church. Both are very neat. I liked the stained glass windows of the church and the brickwork. Also, the earthen and brick fortifications around the two buildings made a great vantage to see these building as well as the areas around them. There was some confusion by some of the visitors who couldn't figure out how to enter the church, don't miss the inside, it's well worth it.
We went from there to the Castle, and quite specifically the keep. We went straight to the top and spent considerable time just taking photos. The views from the top is simply amazing. As we were beginning to make our way down through the displays inside the keep they announced the closure of the keep. this was disappointing as it was (I think) about 20 minutes before 4pm when they started ejecting us. Their hours are already constrained, they shouldn't eject people from the primary sites early, in my opinioin. As a consequence, we were only allowed a breeze through opportunity to see the displays in the keep, but my impression is that they were oriented mostly on kids. Shiney swords and suits of chainmail, next to colorful tapastries. It's all well and good, but there were no signs or other written materials here to give real historical insights. (apparently you can buy at additional costs a guidebook for this part at the front gate, which rankles me)
After leaving the keep, we were expecting to get sheppared to the exit, but we were given nearly another hour to aimlessly wander, which took us through the dimly lit medieval tunnels and along portions of the curtain walls. I was particularly impressed with the overlap of Napoleonic era modifications to much older fortifications. It's interesting to see how military engineers make use of what's already at hand.
Ok, lets talk price. At nearly twenty quid per person for adults two things should change in my opinion. Firstly, you shouldn't be charged for additional guidebooks. That's just crass in my opinion. Secondly, the hours should be either extended, or tickets should allow reentry for the following day.
Conclusion: Three things... firstly, show up early because it's a lot to see and their operational hours are short. Secondly, if you are short on time, skip the Dunkirk tour and just netflix a documentary about it. Thirdly, appreciate that so many distinct historical things are in such a small space. Don't miss this, even at its overpriced entry.