Brandon Y.
Yelp
Recommended by many other travel websites, I bookmarked Edogawa Naramachi as a must try ohitsumabushi and unagi spot during my trip to Nara with the gf, Amy T. Wow - I was not disappointed.
This spot is a bit South of the Nara Kintetsu line, just after the covered shopping area stops. It's a traditional-looking spot, and even though we arrived a bit before 3pm, there was still a wait because it was quite popular. After being called in (we waited for about 15 minutes), the service was fantastic - they took our umbrella to stash, gave us slippers to walk around in, put our shoes in the locker, and guided us to our spot, which was on tatami with a table setting and heated mat underneath. (Make sure to take off your slippers before reaching the tatami).
There were menus in both Japanese and other languages, as well as a description on the best way to eat ohitsumabushi. I opted for the set that included ohitsumabushi, pickles, soup, tofu salad, and chawanmushi (just under 4000 yen). The presentation was beautiful, and the food was amazing.
-tofu salad had some of the softest tofu I've had, and the dressing complemented the taste very well, being a bit sweet
-the soup although plain looking was warm, clear, and had either a seafood or mushroom in it - couldn't tell, but it was good!
-the chawanmushi was warm and perfect - decent size too
The hitsumabushi was the best...a third you eat by itself and the seaweed flavor mixed well with the unagi and rice. The next third you can mix wasabi and green onion/leek(?) to bring out a different taste. The last third you put in the rice bowl and mix tea (included) into it to have ochazuke. This makes it into a rice/eel porridge, which was a great way to cap off the meal. The quality of unagi was great - tender with not too many fish bones, and the sauce was perfectly sweet and salty.
In America, something like this either wouldn't be available or would cost hundreds of USD I'm sure, so we are glad that we found the place, waited, and were treated to a delicious lunch.