trentonmakes
Google
A storied property in a storied city, the Emerson on Hurumzi was one of the first hotel conversions of a fraying palazzo in Zanzibar’s labyrinthine Stone Town. The founder’s vision was of strict conservation, and the traveler today marvels at the exquisite woodwork of the rooms and period furniture. Hotel staff would slip in each evening to prepare the bedchamber, lowering a classical mosquito net over the elegant canopy bed. (To be sure, I never encountered a mosquito anywhere in the hotel or, for that matter, the old town.)||Invisible modernizations have been accommodated — I enjoyed excellent WiFi service in my room. But the devotion to historical integrity does present challenges: the handsome wooden stairs are quite steep, demanding of guests a level of physical exertion that is taxing to those with even the mildest mobility issues. A good breakfast is served on the 1st floor above ground level; the guest rooms start on the second floor up. ELEVATOR NEEDED! Zanzibar’s double whammy of heat and humidity at times had me dripping in sweat just climbing the steps to my room. But, on the bright side, air conditioning was waiting for me when I got there.||Also waiting, at every coming and going, is a very attentive hotel team, led by the historically knowledgable Mbwana. Kamís, Fiona, Najim, Seyid, and Abdul were all unfailingly helpful in the reception area, and Anwar at the breakfast service. However, don’t expect your driver from the airport to drop you at the hotel door: the Emerson on Hurumzi is located deep inside the maze of Old Town alleyways. You’ll have to walk those last few hundred meters. And when you go out to explore, expect to lose your way repeatedly, and revel in your spontaneous discoveries.||Beyond the gracious accommodations of the Old World, Emerson on Hurumzi also offers a unique rooftop dining experience, with traditional Zanzibari musical accompaniment to the traditional Zanzibari cuisine. Hear the muezzins’ call to prayer and the tinkling of the nearby Hindu temple’s bells as you watch the sun set into the sea, and enjoy the musicians’ strings and drums and the vocals of the chanteuse. The food and the music do not come cheap, and remember those five flights of stairs are steep — but the experience is not to be missed.