Jackie M.
Google
Spying the corpse reviver #2 ($23) on a cocktail list always makes me happy. The version at Eschalot Restaurant in Berrima wasn’t acidic enough to vanquish the memory of The Owl House, where I first fell in love with this drink. However, being in a side room of a historic, sandstone cottage felt like a more salubrious place to imbibe than the former Darlinghurst bar. The building dates back to 1840, when it was known as Breen’s Inn. It has been sympathetically restored in a way that preserves its history.
By contrast, the menu created by chef Matty Roberts, feels contemporary. Divided into snacks, small plates, grills, and vegetables, his dishes are predicated on sharing across the well-spaced tables. Fire is a bit of a through-line, starting with smoked butter ($5)—which was oddly priced separately from the house-made bread ($8). I suspect it’s to allow you to choose your own smearing poison, but it just meant we added on hummus, sumac and olive oil ($6) too. Fermented mushroom and charcoal dumplings ($23/3) were packed with flavour: their chewy texture yields to a mushroom duxelles. By contrast, leek, jalapeño and manchego croquettes ($18/3) were crunchy edged balls of molten liquid.
With fresh oysters still en-route from Tuross Head, we settled for oyster cream on an enjoyable venison tartare ($30). A second small plate of reimagined surf’n’turf saw a fatty log of pork belly ($31) teamed with a tenderly-handled Moreton Bay bug with samphire and a mild sea urchin crème. Playing with the Italian winter salad ($21) I so enjoyed at Small Town Provisions, Roberts switches out persimmon for grapes and currants, hazelnuts for walnuts, and vincotto for honey and lime dressing. It shows the versatility of radicchio, which really should be our standard winter salad ‘green’. By-the-glass wines are interesting, with the 2021 Serere Roussanne ($24) drinking best.