Jonathan E.
Yelp
Like the AFC and the NFC, I believe there are two divisions that define Pizza eating, especially in NY.
First there are the traditional dine-in experiences... Lucali, Pauly Gee, Grimaldis, Totonnos, Motorino's, etc. Places where whole pies are made to order and often cooked in wood- or coal-fired ovens. These are meals you go to and linger over.
Then you've got the street division... the neighborhood joints whipping up a selection of pies ready to portion out, and a good percentage of customers simply grab a slice of what's available.
Neither division is better, as sometimes you want an extended love making session, whereas other times you want some instant gratification.
The margarita slice at Espresso might just be the best pizza quickie you can get in all of greater New York.
I had noticed this place appearing high in the Yelp ratings but had never seen it mentioned in any "best of" article, blog, etc. (to my knowledge). Was the wisdom of the crowds really working? So here I found myself in Bay Ridge and decided to check it out. Don't arrive expecting an escape to Naples... it looks and feels exactly like a thousand other neighborhood slice joints.
From previous reviews it was rumored their pre-made selection was pretty simple... and upon arrival, the only thing on the counter (at noon on a Friday) was half a cheese pizza. I like the occasional simple slice of cheese, but was this really the only thing being offered? Turns out he had a Sicilian and Margarita in the oven, and I was happy to wait the 5 minutes. Glad I did.
I was always terrible at math but here before me was the perfect triangle. Above average in size, with blobs of hot white cheese bubbling on a sea of red sauce, the pizza maestro finished the tricolor painting with artful strokes of basil infused olive oil. If there was a food section in the Louvre, this slice would draw more visitors than that Mona chick.
And still there was more David Blane-like wizardry. Despite the bountiful tomato sauce, oozy cheese and well-lubricated body, the crust stayed taught for the duration (which doesn't always happen with quickies).
I don't know if this place can win the "best of" debate when it comes to overall Pizza goodness in NYC. But they could win that division. If you want an easy - but quality score - jump on the R train. It's worth it for a good quickie.