Fairmont Empress

"Why book? Victoria’s tastefully renovated grand dame offers a truly majestic feel with glamorous yet understated rooms, top-notch service, unbeatable harbor views, and the most iconic afternoon tea in all of Canada. Set the scene As befitting the city’s showpiece, the Empress occupies what’s arguably the best spot in Victoria, overlooking the Inner Harbor and kitty-corner to the British Columbia Parliament Buildings. This so-named Castle on the Coast attracts well-heeled tourists drawn to its history and position. The Eastern Canadian couple over there have had the Fairmont Empress on their bucket list for years. The European gentleman in the well-tailored suit is staying for a few nights for a conference. And the 40-something daughter has brought along her mother for a weekend of spa time, tea time, and bonding. The backstory In the late 1800s, the Canadian Pacific Railway company began building grand hotels throughout Canada to house passengers traveling on their trains. British architect Francis Rattenbury designed the chateau-style Empress—named after Queen Victoria, also the Empress of India during the last part of her reign—which started construction in 1904 and opened in 1908. The hotel underwent a major renovation in the 1980s, including restoring the dazzling stained-glass dome ceiling of the Palm Court (today used for wedding receptions and business functions), and then again from 2015-2017, with a $64 million Return of the Queen renovation that freshened up both its exterior and interior, while retaining the historic elements. The Empress was named a National Historic Site of Canada in 1981 and then became part of the Fairmont group in 1999—which, since 2016, has been owned by French-based hotel group Accor. As she ages, the Empress continues to improve herself; the most recent refresh, completed in 2023, added 22 more luxe Gold Floor rooms (for a total of 88) as well as an expanded Fairmont Gold lounge. The rooms Rooms are what you’d expect from one of Canada’s classiest hotels: sophisticated and subdued, in neutral colors but with pops of jewel tones on the pillows and curtains. The old and new mix perfectly, with original crown moldings juxtaposed by contemporary carpets in abstract patterns. Many rooms offer wonderful views of Victoria’s Inner Harbor. The Fairmont pillow-top mattresses and pillows are ridiculously comfortable; I immediately ordered the pillows for my own bedroom after arriving home. Bathrooms can be on the small side and not all of them have tubs, so be sure to ask up-front, if that’s important to you. It’s worth splurging on the Fairmont Gold rooms, which include a dedicated reception area and concierge along with access to the freshly enlarged Fairmont Gold lounge, with a private breakfast, all-day snacks, and evening canapés, plus an exclusive waterfront lounge with a fire pit—perfect for soaking up harbor views in style. Food and drink Q at the Empress serves contemporary Pacific Northwest cuisine, Q Bar is a classy spot for a nightcap (accompanied by live music every evening), and the Veranda offers signature cocktails, shareable plates, and s'mores on a terrace overlooking the water. But the pièce de résistance is the Empress afternoon tea, a tradition since 1908. Yes, it’s pricey and old-fashioned, but it's also a whole lot of fun—and I’m in love with their signature Rose Congou Loose Leaf Tea, which you can also bring home by the (very heavy) bag. The Empress has also started a whimsical bar version of their famous tea, called Sunset Sips, where cocktails (and mocktails) are served in glass teapots and teacups in the evenings, along with tiers of tapas. The spa Lovely Willow Stream Spa has a sauna, steam room, and mineral pool, along with all the usual indulgent body treatments. There’s also an indoor heated swimming pool and whirlpool, along with a wading pool for the little ones. The 24-hour health club includes a full range of fitness equipment to help work off all those scones and clotted cream. The neighborhood/area You’re in the middle of everything here, amongst Downtown Victoria’s bustling and very walkable streets lined with shopping, cafés, and restaurants. You can catch frequently running water taxis to various points around the water (such as Fisherman’s Wharf, a cute place for lunch—don’t miss the local Dungeness crab and oysters) or, for more exercise, walk or jog the waterside path. The fascinating Royal BC Museum is also nearby; it’s a natural history museum that also includes an IMAX theater plus Thunderbird Park, with totem poles and two of BC’s oldest buildings, dating from 1844 and 1852. The Empress is also a stone’s throw from the seaplane terminal to fly to Vancouver and the high-speed ferry terminal to Washington State. The service Everyone’s very friendly and eager to help at the Empress, though things can slow down during busy times; for instance, I had to wait quite a while to have my car retrieved from hotel parking. The concierge is fab at making hard-to-get restaurant reservations, plus Gold Floor guests have their own concierge (though the station wasn’t always staffed during my stay). That said, it’s easy to get a complementary BMW bike to explore the city and even to head to some nearby trails, if that’s your thing. For families The Fairmont Empress has a “Kids Rule the Castle” program, which includes an activity book with a scavenger hunt that takes kids throughout the hotel and complimentary milk and cookies in the room (especially appreciated by my son!). Kids 5 and under dine for free from the restaurant’s children’s menu, while kids 6-12 get half off regular menu items. Cribs, highchairs, potties, and even adorable robes for the younger set are also available. Eco effort The hotel has a BIOSPHERE© certification, meaning it’s been recognized for sustainable practices. They also keep 10 bee colonies, each with more than 50,000 bees, in the hotel’s own Centennial Garden north of the main entrance, from which they harvest honey used in food and drinks in their restaurants and bars. Last but not least, a rooftop herb garden supplies herbs used in their menus, too. Accessibility All the Fairmont Empress’s public spaces are fully accessible, and there are wheelchairs available for use by guests if needed. There are also four accessible rooms with door frames designed for wheelchair access and bathrooms with grab bars and adjustable shower heads. Service dogs are also permitted inside the hotel. For the visually impaired, the Empress has braille on signage throughout the property. Anything left to mention? The Empress’s own 1908 Indigo Gin, which changes color depending on what’s mixed in, is absolutely delicious. Don’t miss trying it in a Lavender Haze cocktail at the Q Bar, mixed with lavender honey syrup, house-made lemonade, and a lavender sprig from the hotel’s rooftop garden. You can also buy your very own bottle to bring home, as I did" - Liz Humphreys

"The British monarchy has a long history with this fortress-like hotel in downtown Victoria, British Columbia." - Boutayna Chokrane, Andrea Bartz

"Visitors to the city of Victoria on Vancouver Island, may be forgiven for thinking that they had stepped back in time to the glorious days of the British Empire, and that they had arrived at the furthest outpost of it. Even the local newspaper, the Times Colonist has the ring of Queen Victoria to it. And one young English architect did more than anyone to perpetuate this feeling. Arriving in Canada from England in 1891, the 24 year old Francis Rattenbury would go on to design many of the magnificent Imperial buildings that give Victoria’s inner harbour its grand sweep. Visitors would disembark at his Canadian Pacific Railway steamship terminal, walk past the majestic British Columbia Parliament buildings, and arrive at the doorsteps of his beaux-arts masterpiece, the Empress Hotel. Built between 1904 and 1908, the Empress soon became one of the world’s most famous hotels. Formidably overlooking the harbour, the grand hotel became a byword in Edwardian luxury. For many years the hotel didn’t have a sign above the door; when one was finally installed, it was reported that a gentleman, watching the workmen raise the sign, remarked, “Anyone who doesn’t know this is The Empress shouldn’t be staying here.”  And still today, the Empress is an exquisite throwback to the days when Great Britain ruled the waves. The hotel serves afternoon tea in the Lobby to over 800 visitors a day. Cocktails are served on the veranda. The Empress has played host to film stars and royalty; in the 1920s the young Prince of Wales danced until morning in the Crystal Ballroom, a room covered in so much crystal that it advertised itself as “dancing under the stars.” In the basement, the hotel keeps a rarely-visited archive, containing old ledgers, menus, photographs and cutlery. There, the press room archives record that “almost 50 years later, the obituaries of elderly ladies would appear under headlines such as, ‘Mrs. Thornley-Hall Dies. Prince of Wales Singled Her Out.’” But whilst the hotel continues its life of opulence and luxury today, its creator did not fare so well. By the early 1920s, Francis Rattenbury was married and had two children. He had just had his architectural plans for Victoria’s new grandiose swimming pool accepted. The Crystal Garden would go on to be where Johnny Weismuller would set the world record for the 100 metres. Rattenbury retired to the Empress to celebrate, and that evening, whilst smoking a cigar, he met the 27 year old beauty Alma Pakenham. They fell in love, and their passionate affair shocked conservative Victoria. Deserting his family, he sailed with her for England and the quiet seaside town of Bournemouth. And it was here in 1935 that Rattenbury was murdered in his drawing-room, in a case that was the tabloid scandal of its day. Rattenbury’s head had been caved in by a croquet mallet, and Pakenham confessed to the murder. But in custody she recanted her testimony, instead pointing the finger at their 17 year old chaffeur George Stoner, whom she had taken as a teen lover. Claiming they were both addled on cocaine, Alma was acquitted. Painted in the press as the murdering seductress, Pakenham, just days later stabbed herself in the heart six times before throwing herself to her death in a river. Stoner was sent to prison for Rattenbury’s murder, and was released seven years later.  Today, superstitious members of the staff say the hand of Francis Rattenbury can still be felt in the glorious hotel he built for Victoria. In the basement archive, staff often report seeing a dapper young gentleman walking the halls in an Edwardian suit smoking a cigar. They say it is the ghost of Rattenbury – seen much as he would have been that ill-fated night when he met the young seductress who would end his days. All ghost stories aside, the Empress, and its historic archive, manage to hide its sensational history quite well." - ATLAS_OBSCURA

"Of the No. 3 Fairmont Empress, Victoria's 464-room grande dame, one guest wrote, 'My wife and I stayed at the Empress for four days, and it was magical, from the food to the service to the spa attendants.'" - Travel + Leisure Editors

"Unstuffy High Tea At The Fairmont Empress Every book will tell you to have high tea at the Empress in Victoria, and you should. They welcomed our three-generation group, including 2 kids under 6, and had hot chocolate for those who didn't want tea. They also had a full gluten-free option, which was a very welcome surprise. I recommend the Empress blend tea with milk and sugar, and the peppermint also got the stamp of approval from our group. The tri-level tray of treats is the fun part: chicken curry finger sandwiches and cake wrapped in marzipan were the faves. It's actually fun and not stuffy at all, which was my fear."