Kim N.
Yelp
I have some friends that have been following Magnus Nilsson for a while now. After meeting him on the food conference circuit, they finally made the trip up to the remote flings of Sweden to eat there, and were blown away. Apparently some guy named Rene Redzepi happened to be there too :
As they recounted these tales and told me over the course of time of the magnificence, I had plotted in my head my visit to this remote destination. Would I fly into Stockholm eat well there and find a small plane or car to head north? Would I go into Oslo, take a boat around the coast of Norway, reaching Trondheim then being shuttled over? Luckily Chef Nilsson has come to me, in a collaboration with Daniel Patterson of Coi, and I now recount this epic cooking. An acquaintance was at the same dinner, though much earlier had given a sneak peek, saying that the food speaks much of the chef's locality, the heritage, and the traditional ways of the wild where it comes from. We were excited. And with no further ado the night went as follows:
Crackers and Dip - flax and mussel / brown rice and kale
Earth & Sea - tofu coagulated with sea water, cherry tomato, fresh seaweed
2011 Txomin Extonuz Txakolina, San Sebastian/Getariako
Oyster - smoldering redwood
2010 Claude Branger, Muscadet Sevre-et-Maine, Loire, France
Young Turnip Cooked Under Decomposed Leaves - cultured butter
2006 Domaine Dujac, Chardonnay,Morey St. Denis, France
Kohlrabi - tobacco, pomegranate, shavings and herbs
2006 Disznoko, Dry Tokajji, Furmint, Hungary
Chantrelle - peas, meyer lemon, lovage salt
2010 Les Binner'Sauvers', Alsace, France
Abalone - nettle-dandelion salsa verde, spicy breadcrumbs
2010 Rosesse, Feipu Dei Massaretti, Ligurie di Ponente (Riviera), Italy
Cauliflower Cooked With White Soy and Vinegar - Whipped Cream and dark beer
NV North Coast Brewing Co. 'Pranqster', Belgian Ale, Ft Bragg, California
Emigh Ranch Lamb - chard leaves and stems, garum, rosemary
2007 Cabot Vineyards, Syrah, Klamath River, Humbolt, California
Almond Ice Cream - wild bay, almond in various forms
Passion Fruit Baba - honeycomb, shiso, white chocolate
NV Bermejo, Malvasia Dulce, Lanzarote, Spain
Candied Raspberries
2011 Cascina Ca'Rossa Brachetto, Birbet, Italy
As predicted, the meal was completely unique. Now I've had a lot of cooking in Denmark, and that maybe the closest point of reference I had to the food. The French use the term "terroir" to describe something that expresses geography, geology and climate of a certain place. I can only say that chef Nilsson's food does exactly that. it is very personal to him,where and how he grew up and how he chooses to continue and interpret it. Im guessing that making your way to Faviken or vice versa is not an easy tastk but if you should make it happen, it promises to be a great experience.