Louisa M.
Yelp
Somebody pinch me, I have died and gone to foodie heaven! I read about FICO Eataly in a chef-centric magazine last year and booked a trip to Bologna, Italy just to go here. When I got to town I checked Yelp and was discouraged by the negative reviews and low star rating -- so much so that I almost didn't go. Boy, am I glad I went anyway because this place is INSANE!
It's a Disneyland for gourmands. For real. Anyone who loves food, who is a cook, a chef, a coffee lover, a seafood snob, a picky vegan, has a sweet tooth, or is crazy about eating, stop what you're doing right now and plan a trip to Italy. It's THAT great!
Getting to FICO is a bit of a challenge. The cheapest and easiest way is the public FICO bus. You have to buy a special round trip ticket (around $8) at the train station, then cross the street to catch it. It's clearly marked but confusing where to get picked up (it's in front of a small market right next to the Mercure Hotel, see my photo). The bus was clean and safe, and only ticket holders going to FICO can get on. We were the only people on the bus each time which made me sad. The trip took about 15-20 minutes each way.
We arrived through theme park gates and the bus dropped us right at the main entrance. This place is HUGE. It's sprawling, massive, and they even have bicycles you can rent so you can get yourself around the grounds faster! Remarkably they are open 10 am - 12 midnight every single day, and although there was hardly anybody there when we arrived on a Thursday night at 7 pm, every single restaurant, food stand, shop, and bar was open. There was even a live band performing!
It's overwhelming so we just started roaming, past the mortadella bar, the cheese factory, the indoor beach and volleyball court, the mini golf, the live animal farm, the truffle restaurant and live truffle dog demonstration, the balsamic vinegar tasting, the homemade pasta station, the insane cookbook store, the coffee roaster, the gelato factory, the cooking classrooms, the movie theater (that shows FREE food-themed movies all day long), the small vineyard, and more. I cannot stress how amazing this place is!
Best of all, it's cheap! We went to the stellar wine bar and had four different glasses of prosecco and our total check was 7.50 euros. I ate a plate of fresh pasta that was literally made in front of my eyes along with a glass of wine and it set me back less than 11 euros. Hubby had freshly made fried potatoes for 4 euros. We ate our way through FICO, and I wish I had been more hungry.
There were all kinds of little exhibits that they're supposed to charge 3 euros to visit but the payment centers were closed and the gates open, so we walked in all of them. One was a boring exploration of wine growing regions and another was a cool greenhouse where you pick up a seedling, plant it in a giant hydroponic garden, and make note of the number of your plot. That way you can track the growth of "your" plant from home!
We spent about 4 hours here but could've easily stayed the whole day, especially if we had taken some of the classes. There was a lot to do but since it was late at night, none of the live demonstrations were running. I would've loved to see some of the chefs in action. I don't know if this was because it was late on a weeknight or if this place is such a flop that they never have the things going, but maybe early on a busy weekend is a better time to go, I'm not sure.
Some people complain that this isn't supporting local businesses but I beg to differ. Many of these individual stands ARE local businesses from the nearby area and specific to Italy, and so many people are employed here. This place deserves to be a huge tourist destination in its own right, and every single foodie should see this place.