William Lindsey
Google
We had a generally good experience at Flor da Laranja on Christmas day. Owner-chef Rabea Esserghini is a gracious, welcoming hostess. Unfortunately, I can't say that some of her guests on that day weere equally gracious and welcoming. A table that seemed to be a multi-generational family speaking both French and English chose to greet our entry into the restaurant with hostile glares, and that cast something of a pall over the evening. Ms. Esserghini can hardly be faulted for the behavior of her customers, though.
Ms. Esserghini does all the cooking for everyone who comes to her restaurant and treats you as if you're a guest in her home. The restaurant is cozy and beautifully appointed. When we arrived, a little plate of appetizers was sitting on the table, a soft goat cheese on a crispy flatbread, and tuna spiced with cumin, also on a flatbread, garnished with mint.
We placed our orders — lamb tagine with artichokes for my spouse and chicken with couscous for me — and then asked Ms. Esserghini to recommend a strong red Douro wine to go with the meal. She chose a bottle of Quinta de la Rosa (2021), and it was very good. We also ordered more appetizers, dolmas and hummus, both excellent. The hummus was lemony and aromatic with cumin.
The main dishes came with an array of mezes — spinach in lemon sauce, eggplant in tomato sauce, chopped sweet potatoes with honey and spice, and a dish of fava beans and olives in olive oil and herbs. These were all very tasty.
My big disappointment with the meal was that the chicken with couscous was relatively tasteless, with none of the warm Moroccan spices I had expected to flavor it. Ms. Esserghini asked if we liked our dishes on the spicy side when we ordered them....
The cost of this wonderful meal was less than half of what it would have been in a comparable US restaurant, and the food would not have been half as good in a comparable American restaurant.