Ziyan C.
Yelp
We had a really nice day trip here! Main takeaways:
Public transportation works fine, but takes ~2.5 hours door to door (depending on where you are in Paris).
If you have a baby, just bring your carrier, not a stroller.
Arrive right at opening to get a photo at the lily pond without any crowds!
In mid-October, there were plenty of flowers in bloom, but not many lilies. Still very beautiful.
We spent ~1.5 hours in the gardens. We were back in Paris by 2pm.
TRANSPORTATION/TIMING: Not bad on public transit. We did have to get up early to get to the gardens right as they opened. This was our timeline:
7:30am leave our Airbnb near the Charles Michels Metro stop.
8:00am arrive at St-Lazare station on the Metro (go to the TOP FLOOR. You can use the machines, or go to the ticket counter on the FAR RIGHT or EAST of all the tracks).
8:15am get on the 8:19am train to Vernon-Giverny.
9:06am arrive at Vernon.
FYI for the above steps, this page was very useful: http://paristogiverny.com/how-to-get-to-giverny/
9:10-9:30am take the "Petit Train" to the shuttle parking lot in Giverny. This train takes you on a bit of a tour around Vernon with a pre-recorded guide.
9:30am-9:45am walk to the Gardens (we got there right as they were opening!).
9:45-11:15am walk around and see the pond, house, & gift store.
11:25-11:40am get coffee across the street from the gardens.
11:40-11:50am walk back to the parking lot where the "Petit Train" dropped us off initially.
11:50-12:10pm take the "Petit Train" back to Vernon.
12:20-12:45 walk around Vernon, see the cathedral (there was also an option to get dropped off at the cathedral, but we didn't take it. We hadn't realized how close it was to the Vernon train station).
12:45pm arrive at Vernon station for the 12:51pm train back to Paris. The train ended up being 15-20 minutes late.
~2:00pm arrive at St-Lazare station in Paris.
THE COST: For two adults + a baby:
4 metro rides.
~60€ for roundtrip train tickets to Vernon-Giverny. It cost an extra 2€ per person to have flexible return tickets. It would have been maybe 10€ cheaper per person to purchase online. FYI the conductor did not check for tickets on either ride.
16€ for two roundtrip tickets on the "Petit Train" from Vernon to Giverny. FYI there seem to be other busses that were fancier and bigger, but not as charming. None were waiting at the Vernon station when we got off the train, so we just took the only option we had. I'm not sure of the cost of these busses, but those definitely wouldn't have made it through the small winding streets of Vernon that the "Petit Train" did.
~16€ for two tickets to the garden.
THE GARDENS:
We spent an hour and a half in the gardens. Even on a Thursday in mid-October, it got pretty crowded by 10am (from tour groups, children's school groups, etc). For the first 15 minutes or so, it was just the ~10 of us who probably all took the same train, and we were all able to get photos on the bridge on the lily pond without crowds in the background.
VISITING WITH A BABY:
Come with just your carrier if possible! The gardens are not too stroller friendly - there are small windy dirt paths and lots of steps. To get to the pond from the main gardens, the path goes underground to cross a road. When they saw us with a stroller, they led us to a gate, took us across the road (no crosswalk lol), and unlocked the gate on the other side so we could avoid the stairs. We were not allowed to bring the stroller into the house, so we had to park it outside at our own risk and just held our baby going through the house. We really should have brought her carrier.
TIME OF YEAR:
We went on October 18. It still felt like there were a ton of flowers in bloom, but only a couple lilies in the pond. I thought the gardens were gorgeous, but I'm sure if I were to compare it side-by-side to the summer time, it wouldn't be as nice. I thought it was worth coming at this time of year to avoid large crowds, though!