Angela M.
Yelp
If you're looking for a modern, lavish, updated ryokan, this is not the place for you and you will not be happy here. If you're ok with staying in a very old but very beautiful, historic building that lacks today's bells and whistles and insulation, that has some charm and quirks, you'll probably have an enjoyable stay here.
We spent a night here in late October, right when the weather had just started to get cold and crisp -- definitely jacket weather. I'd recommend packing some warm socks and pants; the ryokan provides each guest with a yukata, haori, and tabi, but once it starts to get chilly they may not be enough to ward off the cold. The room had a heater, but between my extremely limited Japanese and Google Lens, I was barely able to navigate the screens to get it on. And even when I did, it would only go on for 30 minutes at a time until I pressed some buttons and then it stayed on all night. Once it did, it got the room very warm, and the fluffy futons provided a lot of warmth.
We stayed in a room on the top floor next to the river, which afforded amazing views. The covered balcony was a really nice place to just sit and listen to the water, and at night you could shut the shoji to close off the balcony from the room (which also helped with keeping the heat in overnight, but the other rooms were pretty cold in the morning).
The entire time we were at the hotel, we were treated with warm hospitality. When we arrived, we were given a comprehensive tour of the facility and told how to reserve private onsen. The gentleman who waited on us took a lot of time explaining amenities to us, and when he brought our meals he was very gracious and explained every single dish. He served our rice, poured our drinks, and told us how to contact him when we were finished. After dinner, he cleared the dishes, moved our table and cushions into the room at the entrance, and brought out and set up our futons. In the morning, he put the futons away and set the table back up in the main room before bringing us breakfast.
The food was delicious. Dinner was a traditional Japanese meal with many small dishes and interesting fare I hadn't had at Japanese restaurants back home. While it looked like there wasn't much on each plate, everything added up (especially by the second course) and I was very satisfied by the end. For breakfast, I got the western while my husband got the Japanese. It was very interesting seeing a "western" meal interpreted through a Japanese lens: salad with Italian dressing, coffee, two dinner rolls with jam and butter, a small omelette with a few tiny sausages, and yogurt topped with fruit. Unconventional, but actually quite good.
I wasn't thrilled about the fact that the bathrooms were shared, but luckily everyone cleaned up after themselves. But the sink in the bathroom never fully turned off, and I really didn't like the infinity towel on the roll, which felt kind of gross. Really should've had paper towels instead. The bathroom was also *very* cold in the morning; I can't imagine how cold it would be in there in the winter.
The private onsen were nice. We went into two: one was an all-wood room with a big round bath, and the other room looked like it was carved out of rock with the walls built around it with a smaller bath. However, be aware: in the wood room, which has multiple windows that were kept open all night, bugs can fly in -- like very, very large moths. There was a moth on the inside of the doors that I initially thought was supposed to be cutesy decor, but that I realized later was most likely very real and I was only lucky didn't start flying around the room. You *are* in a semi-rural place, so bugs aren't out of the ordinary, but large moths with the wingspan of small birds aren't welcome guests when you're naked and defenseless.
The courtyard in the middle of the ryokan and the koi pond running along the main hall were beautiful details that contributed to the peaceful nature of this place. They stood in stark contrast to the very loud family staying a floor below us, with small kids they were allowing to run up and down the hall of their floor and yell at the top of their lungs, early in the morning. I was incredibly annoyed that the ryokan staff weren't saying anything to them. At a place that's all about peace and relaxation, I was baffled as to why they were letting a single family disrupt the quiet in such an egregious way.
This wasn't a perfect ryokan, but we were treated so well and everything was so charming that I had a great time. Just adjust your expectations and enjoy the steaming hot baths and hospitality.