Brski B.
Yelp
The concept of the restaurant is interesting. According to its website, the restaurant "acts as an incubator, welcoming young chefs to take over the kitchen in order to find and refine their identity, test their ideas, and learn how to manage a team, before setting off to open their own restaurant." To that end, chefs come and go, which means quality of experience might vary dramatically. Our night, the chef in residence was Laurène Barjhoux, who defined her cooking as a "cheeky yet elegant cuisine mainly focused on vegetables, that embraces the four seasons and the producers, and questions our way of living." The only menu, a tasting menu/degustation, is what it is, and there is no choice for the diner. The amuse-bouche was a cute plate of triangular bites of seasoned butternut squash, pickled cucumber, and pickled daikon. The menu was essentially vegetarian, featuring butternut squash as the 'meat' in a Beef Wellington and as the stuffing of a large raviolo (with foam, which I thought died-out in the aughts). There was a small bowl of bean stew with five or six shelled mussels. A puree of tomato 'water' to be sipped like an aperitif. A smoky soup with corn and bok choy. Thinly sliced beets dressed with a decent vinaigrette. A couple of small shortbread cookies. And for dessert, half a mini fig tart with a quenelle of frozen cream. First, let me say that I rooted for this place from the very start. It was a mostly female staff (servers through chefs), and they were a pleasure from beginning to end. Every-thing was decently seasoned, mostly skilled, and reasonably imaginative; but ultimately it was a failure for me because I found it dull. No diner should have to eat butternut squash in that number of dishes (3). In Paris especially, you can eat a lot better for $250 (food, $75 per person; wine pairing, $50 per person). The wine pairing was excellent. 2.5 rounded up.