Mark S.
Yelp
Known on most travel websites and guides as the best ryokan in Hakone, I'd certainly have to agree - Gora Hanaougi did not disappoint!
Take a train from Shinjuku station on the Odakyu line, either by Romancecar or on the general line, and pick up an Odakyu pass for unlimited use of the tramway/bus/odakyu train/pirate ship transport services around the Hakone area. You'll wind up into the mountains, switchbacking back and forth and seeing some of the most beautiful scenery in Japan.
Arriving at the Gora station, most ryokan are a bit of a hike. Luckily, the ryokan will pick you up! Just call them or specify in your reservation when you plan to arrive.
Check in is at 2pm, standard for all Japanese hotels, ryokan and minshuku. From the moment you arrive, you will experience the traditional Japanese customs in a ryokan:
The first thing that stood out in my mind was the beauty of this place. The ryokan is small and intimate, with only 24 rooms. Each room has an amazing view, either of Mt. Fuji or of the forest. Upon entering the ryokan, we were greeted cheerfully by many of the hotel staff, ushered into a sitting area and given a snack - a perfect way to unwind after hiking around the Hakone area! We were then given a tour of the premises by a super cheerful, kimono-donning hostess. As a Japanese-speaker, I was impressed by her command of keigo (very formal Japanese), for someone so young!
The ryokan is truly beautiful in every way - the rotenburo (public bath) itself is really nice - with a large indoor bath and 2 outdoor baths. The rooms are also really well done. I had a nice suite with an indoor-outdoor shower, my own onsen with a patio balcony overlooking both a bamboo forest, with Mt. Fuji poking up overhead. A mood music CD with patio surround sound, and a tray of tea with wagashi (Japanese sweets) in my room sealed the deal. The bathroom was also stocked with every imaginable amenity you could imagine. Want 3 different type of body lotions, hair products, shampoo types, soaps....or any other beauty product you could possibly imagine? Well, they give you like 10 different choices!
Once settled in, its fun to get into the onsen wear (a yukata, obi and owagi), and pop on the tabi socks, which you get to keep.
The food - simply amazing! We had a 12-course kaiseki dinner and 8 course kaiseki breakfast. Our hostess was wonderful - she lived in Canada, and spoke excellent English. I visited this time with a non-Japanese speaker. So she indulged my desire to chat in Japanese while translating jokes and describing the meal in English as well! Going back to the food - it was delectable art. Almost too pretty to eat, but so tasty was each morsel. I recommend trying the plum cider, which comes from the Hakone and Kamakura regions. Really tasty!
Overall - everything was a 5+/5. I wish I could give this place a 6 or 7/5.
Every part of the service was intimate and personal. The staff here not only treat you with the customary Japanese formality and respect, but they truly make you feel welcomed. I had a smile from ear-to-ear my entire visit. Even paying the bill was done not in giving my card behind a desk, but by me sitting having a cup of coffee and being presented the bill with a gift from the hotel. Very classy. As we left the ryokan, our hostess waved to us our entire car ride down to the station. After we turned the corner, she couldn't see us, but she was still waving a bowing deeply. That is service.
The only thing that potential customers might balk at is the price. Gora Hanaougi is not a cheap hotel. It's quite expensive, in-fact. I'd recommend checking on the rakuten or tripadvisor websites, as sometimes they link to deals for cheaper rates. Regardless, you truly get what you pay for, and I can say without a doubt that the experience was well worth the price.
Great job, Gora Hanaougi!